Welcome to Vágar: I’m spending October on the Faroe Islands

This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you!

As so many others, I had trips cancelled when Covid-19 became a pandemic and sent countries all over the world into lockdown. One of these trips was a return to my beloved Faroe Islands, one of my two favourite countries in the world (the other one being Greenland!). The Faroe Islands responded to the crisis by banning tourists from entering the vulnerable country, resulting in my 10-day April journey being cancelled.

But as summer approached, several countries opened up for tourism and the Faroe Islands followed, although with strict testing requirements upon arrival. I decided to use my flight vouchers for an October trip – but instead of just 10 days, I found time for an entire month! The more time in the Faroe Islands, the better!

An empty airport and my first corona era flight

Two days ago, I got on my first flight since mid March after an eerie experience at Copenhagen Airport. This is the largest and busiest airport in Northern Europe, yet it was completely deserted. Actually, there were more hand sanitizer dispensers than people. Of course that was to be expected, but it was still really strange seeing the usually busy airport that I once used monthly so empty. It was almost apocalyptic.

The introvert in me loved it though. I got through security straight away and was able to find a secluded spot far away from anyone else to wait for boarding. Usually, I always have trouble finding a spot to myself, and as someone who just loves being totally alone (sometimes, not all the time!), it was a welcome change.

The flight itself wasn’t empty, but it wasn’t busy either. I had three seats to myself, although that wasn’t totally uncommon before Covid-19. The only major differences were the lack of in-flight service and the face masks that everyone had to wear for the whole flight. The toilets were (thankfully) still open for use, although queueing wasn’t allowed.

Being up in the air again felt rather strange, yet also wonderful. Especially as we approached the airport on Vágar and the fog lifted, revealing the islands bathed in orange and pink colours from the sunset. It was a gorgeous landing.

The Covid-19 test

We arrived just past 7 PM. The small airport looked like it always has, with its small baggage area and small shop full of Faroese sourvenirs, wool clothes and alcohol. But the arrivals hall had been transformed into a testing center. All people arriving to the Faroe Islands have to get tested upon arrival (except for those that arrive with ferry, they get tested before departure in Denmark). Up until October 1st, testing was free of charge, but I arrived on the very day that they started charging for the tests… Oh well, thankfully it was “only” 312 DKK. A few days prior to my departure, I had received a link to a website where I could pay for the test, so it was super quick when I arrived. They already knew the names and contact info of everyone, so I just said my name and walked over to a lady wearing protective gear, who spent a few seconds poking my tonsils with a long swab and then it was over. I’d heard stories from people who claim that testing hurts, but I could hardly even feel it.

With testing over, I was free to head to my accommodation, although I had to quarantine there until I got my test result. At 1 AM the next morning, I received an sms stating that all tests were negative. If I had been positive – or if someone near me on the flight had been positive – I would’ve had to spend the first two weeks of my time here in some fancy hotel, but still with access to the great outdoors. It wouldn’t have been awful.

My plan for the month

With a negative test result, I am now free to do as I please, although the government recommends a second test on the 6th day. I’m going to get it to be safe and I will be extra careful until I get the result of that test, so visiting friends will happen after that when I know there’s no risk of me spreading the disease.

My plan for the month is actually rather simple. I want to see and experience just about everything that the island of Vágar has to offer.

Last year, I spent six weeks getting to know every corner of Nólsoy, and this year, I want to get to know Vágar. Seeing as I’ve been almost everywhere a car can take me on the Faroe Islands and I’ve hiked many hiking trails and climbed many mountains, I have set a new goal for my future visits. I want to spend at least a month per inhabited island (maybe excluding Stóra Dímun and Koltur as they’re only home to one family and that might be a bit intrusive), in order to truly explore every corner of the Faroe Islands. I love this country to bits and I just want to see it all. Climb every mountain, explore every village in depth and find all the hidden gorges, cliffs and sea stacks in the country.

Giljanes Hostel in Sandavágur

I’m staying at a cozy and incredibly cheap (because it’s off-season) hostel in the outskirts of Sandavágur, a gorgeous village that is home to the prettiest church in the country. The hostel is run by Kristjan, who is super friendly and enthusiastic, and he has one employee, Lucy from Czech Republic, who is very down to earth and warm. I feel very welcome here!

The hostel features a large living room with cozy sofas, long tables and chairs, a TV and games to play; a fully equipped kitchen with two large fridges (essential in a country as expensive as the Faroe Islands – there’s no way I could afford not cooking myself!); clean shared bathrooms and plenty of private rooms and dorms. I’m actually staying in a dorm, but since the hostel is rather empty (mostly due to Covid-19 travel restrictions, but also because it’s off-season), I’ve been told that I should get the room to myself for the entire month. Perfect!

But the best thing about the hostel is its permanent inhabitant – the cat, Felix! He is already my new best friend (I bribed him with treats!). Actually, as I’m writing this right now, he’s laying by my side, fast asleep on the sofa.

Click here to read more about this amazing hostel!

The first few days on Vágar

It has been typical Faroese weather (wind and rain) for the first few days, although with a few moments of sunshine in between. I have spent the first two days settling in and planning out my month of mountain climbing, hiking and camping. I have also been on some long walks around Sandavágur and the neighbouring village of Miðvágur, and today, I found a dirt track that lead me up into a valley beneath two high mountains that I hope to conquer soon.

Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny, so I’m going on my first mountain hike of the month. Depending on fog, I think I will try to climb the three mountains south of Miðvágur. Wish me luck!

Want to explore Vágar on a tour?

This 7-hour “Everything in One Day” tour takes you to all the highlights around Vágar, Streymoy and Eysturoy, and of course includes the waterfall in Gásadalur and the gorgeous view from Bøur.

If you just want to explore Vágar, you might consider this 4-hour tour of the island, including a visit to the waterfall and a hike to the famous Trælanípa cliffs at the edge of Lake Leitisvatn!