Stongin, Nólsoy: Finding a hidden puffin paradise on the Faroe Islands

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Every traveller ever to visit the Faroe Islands during the summer wants to go to Mykines, the island of the puffins. But Mykines is notorious for ferry delays and cancellations, often leaving people stranded for days on end.

But what if I told you that there’s an easier way to see puffins on the Faroe Islands? Because there is!

It’s only 20 minutes of sailing away from the capital. 40 DKK return. Hardly ever any problems with the ferry. And many daily connections. Very few tourists compared to Mykines too. Does it sound too good to be true? It’s not. It’s just the best kept secret in the country. That secret is called Nólsoy. The island is bird paradise #1 for other species than puffins, but puffins also thrive there.

This July, I spent three days on Nólsoy. I set up my tent at the free primitive campsite, overlooking the vibrant village and Stongin, the flat, northern part of Nólsoy where I’d decided to go for an evening walk to rediscover the cliffs at its eastern coast.

And I had a very specific mission on Stongin. It was mid-season for the puffins, and three years earlier, I’d seen two puffins at the northern end of Stongin, but I didn’t have time to explore further that day. So I wanted to return to see if I could find more puffins!

Read more: A complete guide to the island of Nólsoy, Faroe Islands

It was 7.30 PM when I started my hike. I was expecting to spend an hour, maybe two, on this short five-kilometre hike, but I ended up spending four hours on it. My curiosity kept me going, made me explore every cliff and every rock formation.

I walked along the gravel road leading out of the village towards the rocky northern part of the island. There, I had my first puffin sighting. There were hundreds of them, floating in the ocean. But none on the rocks.

I kept going, following the rocks along the coast to an area I hadn’t been before. I came across a dramatic gorge, Mánagjógv. I was surprised to spot a few puffins, and two of them were on a cliff just below me!

I hadn’t planned to go this far on the rocks and I didn’t even know if it would be possible to get all the way out there, but my curiosity got the better of me. At one point, I couldn’t go any further, so I climbed up the rocks to where an old boat rests on the green grass.

I followed the coast to the east side of Stongin and soon came to a huge cliff. This was where I discovered Nólsoy’s hidden puffin paradise. Sheltered by the approaching dusk, hundreds of puffins were flying back and forth from the cliffs to the ocean and back, fish in their beaks for their young ones in the cliffside nests.

A hare popped up from its hiding place as I continued along the coast. I saw puffins perched all over the cliff edges, giving me endless photography opportunities as dusk set in.

I lingered for a while at the puffin paradise I’d just discovered, and then started heading back towards the village. It wasn’t long until the rocky plateau of Rivtangi came into view below me.

I followed a slope down a cliff, and came across another colony of puffins getting ready for the night on the cliff edges. I entered the village as darkness fell, and went to the campsite to get cozy in my little green tent.

Hiking route description: Around Stongin to Nólsoy’s puffin paradise

The hike begins at the end of Í Geilini in the northern part of the village. Enter the gravel road, Í Stong, and 200 metres in, go right and take a detour up to the wind turbine for a great view of the village. Return to the gravel road and follow it to its end. This part of the hike is very easy with some ascending and descending.

Where the road stops you’ll see a footpath leading to Boðin, the very north of the island. Follow the footpath out to its end and then walk out on the rocks beyond the path. Don’t miss out on climbing around on the rocks, which is also a good place to search for puffins.

Hike back to the footpath and follow the coastline going left under a rocky plateau to Mánagjógv, a gorge with more puffin sighting opportunities. Continue along the rock edge until you find a good spot to go up above the plateau. I found a spot 100 metres from the gorge. Follow the coast around, staying close to the edge but not too close! Soon, you’ll reach a huge cliff with a sheep trail going into the cliff. DO NOT follow the sheep trail as the cliff is hollow and could collapse at anytime. But this is the hidden puffin paradise of Nólsoy. In the morning and late evening from mid April to September, you’ll see them perched on the cliff edges, flying to and from the ocean, bringing small fish to their chicks in their nests in the cliffs.

Continue along the cliffs where more puffins sit along the edges. Soon, the rocky plateau of Rivtangi will come into view below you. Take care here as the cliffs are vertical and steep in this part. The last part of the hike to the village goes down a slope along the coast with more cliff views and potential puffin sightings. Go towards the red fence and enter back into the village where the hike ends.

The hike around the east side is easy with only a few steep ascends and descends. You’ll have to climb a few fences throughout the hike, but most are broken or have an opening to go through.

The hike is 5 km, takes 2-4 hours depending on how many photo stops you take, and it’s an easy hike – especially the first part to Boðin.

Interested in exploring Nólsoy by boat?

Enjoy a unique trip around Nólsoy by boat where you’ll get to see the many hidden caves of the islands. It’s the perfect way to spot the seals, puffins and other seabirds that thrive on and around Nólsoy. The two-hour tour is available from April to October. The price starts at 2,100 DKK for 1-3 people. Read more here!

Alternatively, you could take a summer trip on the historic scooner Norðlýsið, where the captain will sail you around the island before stopping in the village. The three-hour tour is available from May to August. The price is 850 DKK per person for adults and 425 DKK for children. Read more here.