Kerrera: A journey back in time to one of Scotland’s least known islands

Stepping off the small ferry that brought me over from the mainland in a matter of minutes, Kerrera immediately felt like a different world. Was that ferry a time machine? It sure felt like it.

Kerrera is the definition of a ‘hidden gem’. The island may be close to the mainland, but it is constantly overshadowed by its popular neighbour, Mull. Time stands still on Kerrera. Or at least it feels like it does. The island is home to under 100 people, who are all spread out on individual crofts or hamlets. It wasn’t until last year that all the communities were connected by road – before that, the people living in the north had to walk or use off-road vehicles to access the ferry to the mainland! It truly felt like I’d been transported back to the 1950’s where life was just a little slower and a little less complicated – and I loved it.

While Kerrera is a small island, it’s not possible to cover everything on foot in one day, at least not if you enjoy taking it slow and venturing off trail like me. For my day trip, I decided to stick to the hillier part of the island, the southern end, and largely followed the ‘Southern Loop‘ hiking trail.

It wasn’t long before I met the first inhabitants on the island, a bunch of grazing sheep. Moments later, two rabbits came running down the hill. I stopped at the first bench I came across to enjoy my breakfast in the sun, and then continued along the coast. I came to the Kerrera Community Wood, where the island community is planting a forest. I had two pounds on me, so I put it in a little box and that should result in two extra trees for their forest! I love supporting local initiatives like this.

After a tough hike on the Isle of Mull the day before, I enjoyed having a chill day of slow walking around Kerrera. The first long stretch went along a paved road, which was a welcome change for my tired legs.

Approaching the Little Horse Shoe Bend, a small picturesque bay, I noticed a shipwreck lying in solitude on the stony beach. I couldn’t believe that it was just laying there, exposed and free to explore! I’ve tried to research the ship, but no results have come up so I don’t know its history nor when or why it ended up on Kerrera. It remains a mystery!

A slight raise in the terrain followed ahead, and I soon got beautiful views of the mountains of the mainland and the tiny island of Sgeirean Dubha with its lighthouse in the foreground. This was also when the paved road gave way to a gravel road which soon became a grassy trail, leading me towards Gylen Castle. The 16th-century castle ruin is the most famous sight on the island, although that doesn’t say much considering how unknown Kerrera is in general.

Upon first sight of the castle, my eyes widened with excitement as I finally got to see the backside of Kerrera with the mountains of Mull as its backdrop. This was where I decided to have my first long photo stop, and set up my tripod for a few selfies. I then headed down to the rocky beach beside the castle, and made my way up to the entrance. This was the first time I’d met other people while on the island, and it was just one couple who left as I was approaching, so I had the entire castle to myself!

Thirsty for some tea, I headed inland again to Kerrera Tea Garden, but it was closed for the season. So I headed back to the coast and found myself a nice spot on some rocks to enjoy my lunch. A short distance later, I spotted the tiny islet of Eilean Orasaig, which to my surprise was accessible due to low tide.

So of course, I had to have a wander. I’m glad I did, because this was where I found the most beautiful views of the day; low rugged cliffs protruding far into the wild ocean. I walked around the whole islet, and spotted a stone slab with a Christian cross and two house remains from a time when the islet must’ve been inhabited. I tried to dig up the history of the islet, but once again, the internet did not prove useful!

Back on Kerrera, I walked past Ardmore, one of the many small hamlets on the island, and followed a rough and muddy trail up into the middle of the island. I still had a few hours to go before the last ferry back to the mainland, so I took it slow and enjoyed the calm February weather and gorgeous views of Mull and the neighbouring island of Lismore which I visited the following day.

I came by another small hamlet, Barnabuck, with ruins from what looked like a former settlement. As golden hour put on its display of vivid warm colours, I reached Balliemore, which is the largest of Kerrera’s many small settlements. Balliemore is home to the Kerrera Old School, which the locals are working on turning into a community centre. I met several rabbits as I walked into the hamlet, but they ran away too quickly for me to even reach for my camera.

As one last stop before the ferry, I visited Balliemore Farm Shop, a tiny trust-based shop on the side of the road, selling local goods and crafts. I bought some locally made soap, a cute Christmas bauble and a local soda before making my way to the ferry and waving goodbye to beautiful Kerrera.

I enjoyed my slow day on Kerrera immensely, and it was definitely my favourite of the three islands I visited on this trip. In fact, it’s up there with Raasay on my list of favourite Scottish islands! I especially enjoyed it because it’s so walkable (compared to Mull, especially), and because there were hardly any people and the views were breathtaking. I also love the fact that the island doesn’t have a village but instead has many isolated hamlets which must allow for the most peaceful life imaginable.

Some useful info for your Kerrera trip

GETTING THERE: A ferry runs several times daily from the small harbour of Gallanach, located approximately 45 minutes by foot from the centre of Oban or a short 10-minute drive. Alternatively, there is a bus that runs Monday-Saturday between Oban and Gallanach; search the timetable here. To book your ferry tickets, click here. Tickets cost £3.40 for a return journey for adults, and £1.70 for children aged 5-15, and children under the age of 5 ride for free. The journey over takes just five minutes!

TOILETS: There is a composting public toilet between Gylen Castle and the Kerrera Tea Garden.

HIKING ROUTE: I recommend the Southern Loop, which can take as little as three hours to complete or much much longer, if you like to venture off trail and take it slow like I did. I’d recommend walking over to the tidal island of Eilean Orasaig, as the best views are found there, in my opinion! On the route, you’ll also come by Gylen Castle, several crofts and hamlets and of course plenty of gorgeous viewpoints.