Romantic Córdoba: Alone in Spain’s city of love

Córdoba is Spain’s City of Love. It’s so romantic that Venice and Paris pale by comparison. And with the second-largest preserved historic centre in Europe and a unique mosque-cathedral, Córdoba is a definite must-see on any trip to Andalusia – also if you’re travelling solo. Cutting Morocco from my itinerary ensured that I had time to visit Córdoba during my month-long journey through Southern Europe. As soon as I stepped foot inside the historic centre, I knew it was a decision I wouldn’t regret.

The old centre carries memories of a bygone era. From the Roman period where it was merely a settlement in the enormous empire, and the eighth century where the Moors conquered the city and turned it into a world leading center of education under the Caliphate of Córdoba, and to the 13th century when it was recaptured by the Catholic Kingdom of Castile during the Christian Reconquista. This diverse history is reflected through the architecture of the city which has resulted in the whole historic centre becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Roman Bridge

I had two nights in Córdoba with an evening, a full day and a morning to explore. I’d found the cozy Hostal Osio in the middle of the historic centre which became my base for the stay. After checking in, I went for a sunset stroll to the Puente Romano, an old bridge from the Roman times. I stayed to watch as the sky turned dark and the bridge lit up, creating the most magical and romantic atmosphere. Couple after couple passed me as I started to realize that I’d come to a place where solo travellers are very few in numbers. Córdoba is definitely a destination for those in love. I didn’t mind, however, because I was also in love. With the world, that is.

Córdoba at night

I spent the next few hours wandering the warm streets of Córdoba, in search of some vegan food. Unfortunately, that was near impossible to find, so I opted for some supermarket snacks. Despite this, I had an enjoyable evening watching the streets come to life after dusk and peeping in at the restaurants that offered flamenco shows for the lucky diners.

Córdoba’s patios

Córdoba is well known for its many colourful patios, so the next morning, I set out to find some of these. I was hoping to see the famous patios of the palace-museum Palacio de Viana, but unfortunately, it was closed. Instead, I wandered through the quaint streets of the old centre, keeping a lookout for any open doors that could reveal one of the traditional patios for me. Luck struck after a little while as I spotted a door that was slightly open. There was a sign saying “free entrance”, so I opened the door and what a sight it was. In front of me was the most beautiful little patio I’d ever seen. At that moment, I understood what all the fuss was about.

The Alley of Flowers

I continued my quest to find Córdoba’s beautiful flowers and headed to the romantic Calleja de las Flores (‘the Alley of Flowers’), a narrow passageway with flower pots hanging from the walls. The alley is very popular with tourists, but apparently also with pigeons as TWO of them decided to dump their waste on me. Well, at least it will bring me luck!

The flowers of Córdoba are supposed to be at their best in the beginning of May when the popular Córdoba Patio Festival is held, but even though I was there in late July, the flowers were still plentiful and beautiful. It would be amazing to return to Córdoba for the festival though, and I know that especially my grandmother would love it.

The Mosque-Cathedral

In the afternoon, I explored the gardens of the famous mosque-cathedral, lined with small fountains and orange trees. I decided not to enter the mosque as free entrance is only from 8.30 AM to 9.30 AM. Instead, I got up early the next day and returned to explore the interior, and was awarded with an almost tourist-free space!

The Mezquita-Catedral (‘Mosque-Cathedral’) is Córdoba’s most notable piece of Moorish architecture. The structure was first built as a mosque in 784 AD and later expanded by later Muslim rulers. However, following the Catholic recapturing of Córdoba in 1236, the complex was converted into a Catholic church. Several Christian chapels were added to the complex, a Renaissance cathedral nave was built in the middle of the structure and the minaret of the mosque was converted into a bell tower, although much of the original Moorish architecture was also preserved.

Today, the official name of the complex is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, but due to the unique history and architecture of the building, it is often referred to as a mosque-cathedral. Many muslims still wish to pray in the former mosque but Spanish church authorities and the Vatican have opposed this. The site continues to be claimed by the Muslim community, so hopefully one day, an agreement will be settled so followers of both faiths can enjoy the complex.

A stroll along the river

The day was still young after I’d finished exploring the mosque-cathedral, so I headed to the river for a walk to a shopping center to find food and look for summer dresses as I was dying in the heat.

Córdoba is known for having the highest summer temperatures in all of Europe, and that was obvious to me as I was walking down the river. As I had often done during this trip to Southern Europe, I wondered why on earth I had chosen this part of the planet to travel during the summer. High temperatures and hoards of tourists are my worst nightmare, but thankfully, Córdoba wasn’t too bad in terms of tourists. Especially not by the river where I walked all by myself.

Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

I finished the morning off with a visit to the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, another very romantic place in the city. The alcázar is a medieval palace, built in the 14th century. The exterior is nothing special, well apart from the many cats that greeted me near the entrance. The interior, however, is exquisite with magnificent courtyards and gardens in a style that reminded me a lot of the beautiful Persian gardens I saw in Iran.

I spent quite a while enjoying the peaceful gardens, exploring the palace and climbing a tower to see the magnificent view of Córdoba from above.

Medina Azahara

The last place I wanted to see while in Córdoba is not actually in Córdoba, it’s located eight km west of the city. I am talking about the famous, newly declared UNESCO World Heritage Site, Medina Azahara (‘the Shining City’).

Medina Azahara is the ruins of a big, fortified palace-city built by the Caliph of Córdoba during the Moorish period between 936 and 940 AD. For the next seventy years, it served as the de facto capital of the al-Andalus empire before being abandoned in 1010 AD following a civil war. The palace-city consisted of mosques, administrative and government offices, reception halls, workshops, barracks, residences, beautiful gardens and aqueducts that supplied the city with water. At the time, it was the largest known city built entirely from scratch in Western Europe, and it would be described by travellers as a dazzling palace full of treasures never seen before, hence its name.

The palace-city was discovered in 1911 and since then, about 10 percent of the 112 hectares has been excavated and restored. Excavations and restorations continue while visitors flock to the part that is already visible.

Getting to Medina Azahara from Córdoba was very easy. I simply booked a spot on the tourist bus that takes visitors to and from Medina Azahara for just nine euros. I left at 11 AM and caught the bus back at 2.15 PM, allowing me 2,5 hours to explore the archaeological site. It was the perfect amount of time to be able to explore every corner of the available ten percent while also having time to take photos and relax once in a while.

In a way, the place reminded me of a mini Persepolis. Especially when I stood at the top of the road, looking down at the palace-city from above. For a moment, I felt like I was back in Iran, standing above the majestic Persepolis. I can only imagine how grand Medina Azahara will look when every inch of it has been excavated and restored. If only that happens in my lifetime!

When I returned to Córdoba, it was time to say farewell and head on to my next Andalusian destination, its beautiful capital of Sevilla. It had been two magical days in Córdoba, a city I didn’t know what to expect of but found incredibly romantic and atmospheric. I hope to be back one day in May so I can experience the famous flowers in full bloom.

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