As the Faroe Islands continue to become more connected with new subsea tunnels constantly being built, there are only few islands left isolated that hopefully always will remain so. Because the isolation is a huge part of their charm. One of those islands is Koltur. I first visited this tiny island and its two semi-permanent inhabitants back in August 2016, where a friend and I spent a night camping there. I left Koltur wanting more, but it took me a whole seven years and a dissertation project to return! It’s not because I didn’t want to, it’s just that Koltur isn’t one of those islands you can just visit on a whim. Up until June 2024, visiting was possible via helicopter a few times per week. But now there is not even helicopter service to the island, so your only option is to take a tour or befriend a local with a boat!
I got lucky for my visit in May 2023 and caught the helicopter to the island where I was conducting research for my dissertation (read more about that here). With two nights on the island, I had plenty of time to do some exploring between my fieldwork. Koltur may be small, but it packs a lot, and I was on a mission to see it all!
I arrived on a cloudy and windy afternoon. After getting settled in the “scientist house” in the restored abandoned village of Heimi í Húsi, I set out on a hike to the southernmost point of the island, Kolturstangi, and up Fjallið, which is known as the smallest mountain in the Faroe Islands, reaching a height of only 101 metres. I followed the rocky west coast, on the look-out for gorges and skerries. I came past a few very small gorges as well as several colourful rock pools; a gorgeous landscape not often seen on the Faroe Islands. The small gorge, Trongagjógv, was a bit difficult to locate as it’s very near the sea, but with the help of my map, I did manage to find it. I walked out as far as I could and actually got to look inside the gorge which revealed a deep cave into the west coast’s low cliffs!
I had a lot of fun skipping along the rocky coast, and soon reached Kolturstangi where a short climb awaited to reach the very end of the island. There, I spotted a seal popping his head out of the water, and disappearing as soon as he spotted me. I stood there enjoying the scenery and the fresh breeze when I suddenly saw two more seals popping their heads up. They swam closer to have a good look at me, and one even stayed above water to listen to me scream-sing ‘Under the Sea’ at him!
When it got too cold to stay there any longer, I bid farewell to the seals and headed up Fjallið, which is probably the easiest “mountain” I’ve ever climbed! I hiked along the east coast while taking in the magnificent views, and soon came to a spot that I recognized from my 2016 trip; perhaps the most beautiful stretch of cliffs on Koltur with a look down to bright green rock pools and waves crashing against rocky skerries.
Since it was getting late, I then decided to head back to the house and call it a night, so I could get some rest before my big day of fieldwork the following day! Read all about that here!
On my last day on Koltur, I finished up my fieldwork and then went down to the beach to explore while waiting for the helicopter to take me back to civilization. The beach looks small and insignificant from above, but once I stepped onto it, I was surprised by how beautiful and clean it is!
I needn’t have hurried to explore the beach as the helicopter was cancelled due to fog, so I got a few extra hours on the island while waiting for a replacement boat. I was actually offered to stay until the next helicopter three days later, and had I not had stuff to do for my dissertation research, I definitely would’ve taken them up on the offer. I love Koltur so much, and it bugs me that I wasn’t able to climb its highest mountain, Uppi á Oyggj (477 m.), since it was covered in fog for my entire stay. But it does give me a wonderful reason to return one day!
Hiking route description: Kolturstangi and Fjallið
This easy hike takes you to the southernmost point of Koltur and up Fjallið, the lowest mountain on the Faroe Islands at 101 m. Start in Heimi í Húsi and make your way south, following the west coast. Go as close to the coast as possible so you won’t miss the small gorges and rock pools. There’s no trail for the most part, but the route is easy to follow as long as you stick to the coast. Once you reach Kolturstangi, you’ll have to climb up the rock to get to the southernmost part. Make sure you look out for seals here – and take care not to go too close to the edge as the waves can get high and splash in over the rocks.
Continue north along the east coast to the summit of Fjallið, a short and easy ascent with some beautiful views along the way. Then make your way along the east coast to the foot of Uppi á Oyggj. If you feel like it, you can continue up this mountain, or you can head back to Heimi í Húsi. But don’t forget to explore the cliffs of the east coast first – they are magnificent!
The hike is approximately 4,5 km, takes 2-3 hours and is easy with just a short ascent up Fjallið.
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