Děčín, Czech Republic: The perfect cheap base for exploring Saxon Switzerland

Saxon Switzerland is a national park that stretches along the eastern German border and into Czech Republic, where it is known as Bohemian Switzerland. The main draw of the national park is the sandstone rocks protruding through densely forested mountains, and the German side is by far the most popular. But because accommodation is very expensive on the German side, a campsite in the small Czech city of Děčín ended up as my choice of accommodation when booking a trip for my travel buddy and I back in the end of May last year.

With four days off work, it was the perfect opportunity to explore this part of Europe that had been on my radar for a while. And it certainly didn’t disappoint.

We had no expectations of Děčín whatsoever and didn’t expect to spend any time in the city beyond sleeping, but it didn’t take long for us (especially me) to fall in love with the city. It’s small and cozy, and nestled beneath low forested mountains a most scenic setting. The city is full of beautiful pastel-coloured townhouses and a castle on a rocky hilltop with peacocks roaming freely! Děčín turned out to be so much more than just a convenient place to sleep!

Why Děčín is a better choice than Dresden as a base for exploring Saxon Switzerland

Overall, Děčín is both cheaper and more convenient as a base for exploring Saxon Switzerland than Dresden – despite being located in a different country!

Cheaper accommodation

Staying within the national park is very expensive, so most visitors opt for Dresden and take day trips into the national park. But as we found out while booking, accommodation in Dresden books out quickly and is much more expensive than on the other side of the border.

In Děčín, we paid just 116 euros for three nights in a glamping tent at Kemp Děčín, located next to the river Elbe and just a kilometre from the train station. The price included free showers, bed linen and WiFi although the latter wasn’t the greatest. Data works much better in Czech Republic than Germany though, so we had no trouble staying connected!

Easier access to the national park

We were a bit worried that it would be a hassle travelling from one country to another twice a day, but we never even had to show our passports. Furthermore, train tickets were cheaper than from Dresden, and connections ran frequently to Bad Schandau on the German side of the national park. From Dresden, it takes 45 minutes to reach Bad Schandau, and from Děčín it takes just 20 minutes.

We used The Trainline to find the best connections, but we didn’t buy our tickets there as it was much cheaper buying them from the ticket counter at the train station in Děčín. We paid just 330 koruna (ca. 14 euros) daily for a return ticket for two people, and the ticket gives you ultimate freedom as it can be used for any return departure for three days. Bare in mind that this ticket will only take you to and from Bad Schandau where you’ll have to change trains and buy a new ticket to wherever you want to go within the national park, but this is just a small additional cost.

Cheaper food

Another way to save by staying in Děčín instead of Dresden is to buy all the food there, including lunch for the trips into Saxon Switzerland as food is significantly cheaper in Czech Republic than Germany!

What to see and do in Děčín

Because Děčín turned out to be so much more amazing than anticipated, we decided to spend one of our three days in the area exploring the city. The city is small and compact so it doesn’t take long to explore, but it’s well worth taking your time to do so! Here are my tips for what to see and do in Děčín:

Get to know Děčín at Kříže v Děčíně

The light pink church Kříže v Děčíně and the little square in front of it is the heart of Děčín. The early Baroque church is the parish church of the Roman Catholic denomination. It was built in the 15th century and dedicated to the Holy Cross. It lies behind the eastern city gate which is still preserved to this day. In the area, there are plenty of cafés and restaurants serving traditional Czech food.

It’s a great place to go to get a feel of the city and to sit down for a tasty meal (Czech food is divine, even for vegans!).

Visit the peacocks at Děčín Castle

The main landmark of Děčín is its 13th-century castle that stands on a sandstone rock plateau above the confluence of the rivers Elba and Ploučnice. The castle was rebuilt into Renaissance style in the second half of the 16th century, and later into its current Baroque and Classicist style. Throughout its history, the castle belonged to prominent families of Děčín although it was often besieged and conquered by foreign invaders.

The castle grounds are free for visitors to roam through. There are plenty of peacocks welcoming you to the historic site, posing on the castle walls in front of the city below.

Relax in the castle gardens

Just below the castle lies the magnificent Jižní Zámecké Zahrady (‘Southern Castle Gardens’). This ornamental baroque garden was created in 1737, and the five terraces were added in the beginning of the 19th century. 18 heated greenhauses were also placed there, and Děčín became famous for its rich collections of tropical plants. In 1852, the world’s largest waterlily plant, Royal Victoria, bloomed for the first time in Europe!

The greenhouses no longer exist, but the gardens are still a beautiful place to roam or just relax for a little while and enjoy the slow pace of the city.

Enjoy the views from Tyršův Most

For the best views of Děčín’s colourful townhouses that line the river banks, head to the Tyršův Most bridge from 1933, which is a beautiful sight in itself.

This is also where you’ll find the best view of the Pastýřská stěna mansion, perched atop a rocky promontory towering above the city.

Look at old mansions in the Červený Vrch neighbourhood

The hilly neighbourhood of Červený Vrch is home to many gorgeous mansions, all different in style and colour, some newly renovated, most looking half abandoned.

Remember to look back at the gorgeous views of the city centre as you make your way up through the neighbourhood!

Go for a hike through the Pastýřská Stěna forest

Above the Červený Vrch neighbourhood sits the sandstone rock massif of Pastýřská Stěna, covered in dense forest. Enjoy a peaceful and easy hike to the highest peak of the same name, reaching an elevation of a mere 278 metres above sea level.

From the top of the hill, you’ll have gorgeous views of several small villages in Děčín’s vicinity.

Enjoy the view from the Pastýřská stěna mansion

Head up to the top of the Pastýřská Stěna rock to the mansion and the viewpoint known as Shepherd’s Wall.

This is where you’ll find the best views of Děčín from above as well as the forested mountains beyond. This is also where you can see Děčín Castle in all its glory!

As you can see, Děčín offers a wealth of experiences and beautiful spots to explore, including several breathtaking views and short hikes. Not only is Děčín a great place to stay as a base for exploring Saxon and/or Bohemian Switzerland, it’s also a gorgeous destination in itself!

WANT MORE INFO?: Download a city guide for Děčín with GPSmyCity here!

Wondering what to see on the German side of the national park? Stay tuned for my post on Saxon Switzerland!