The island of Vorsø: Where wilderness prevails

Vorsø is a very special island in Denmark, and one I’d dreamt about visiting for as long as I can remember. It’s one of the last true wildernesses in Europe.

The small island is located in Horsens Fjord close to where I grew up. It’s a nature preserve, protected since 1928. Access is limited, making it even more of a mystery to me, and my desire to go there only grew when I kayaked around the island in the summer of 2020. Fast forward a year, and I was finally stepping foot on Vorsø.

Vorsø is not just special because it’s difficult to visit. The reason why it’s so hard to visit is because authorities want to allow nature to take its course with as little human interference as possible. The island is most known for its large colony of cormorants as it was the only place in the country where they weren’t hunted. So-called invasive species are allowed to live freely on Vorsø. Fallen trees are not removed, and literally nothing is regulated. It makes it a truly interesting place to study for biologists, ecologists and other natural scientists – as well as for everyone else who’s interested in experiencing native, unregulated nature.

Only two people live on the island, ranger Jens Gregersen and his wife. They live there in solitude, surrounded by nothing but wilderness. They have lived there for forty years, and Jens knows the island inside out. His job is to supervise the island and check up on the ever-changing flora and fauna. In his free time, he spends his days painting the birds that visit his paradise.

But Jens and his wife aren’t the only people that have called Vorsø home. Before they moved in, a little family lived there, and the children had to walk over the fjord to the mainland every day to attend school. And even further back in history, in the 13th-15th century, Vorsø was part of Horsens Monastery, and munks brought medical plants and hops for brewing beer to the island. So it’s not only the natural history of Vorsø that is of interest; this wilderness also has a long cultural history behind it.

Getting to Vorsø is only possible on a guided tour, one that’s only available a few times per year. They sell out quickly, but last year, I was finally able to get my hands on two tickets.

I brought my younger brother along for the evening adventure. Together with our guide from the local museum and the others in the group, we waded 700 m through shallow waters following the cairns of Ebbevejen, the “road” to Vorsø. Jens met us as we stepped onto the island, and he guided us through the place he’s so incredibly lucky to call home. It’s a wonderful paradise, a wilderness as untouched as can be in this world that we’ve created.

Jens guided us along the only road on the island, a gravel road that leads to his house. And then we went into the dense forest, searching for wildlife. Although four hours might seem like a long time on such a small island, time flew by. We walked, listened to all of Jens’ interesting stories, encountered many cormorants and watched as two sea eagles landed on a branch not far from us. A rare sighting, according to Jens.

As we made our way to the other side of the island, the islet of Vorsø Kalv came into view. A deer was crossing over the shallow water, a sight I never imagined I would see. Our guide said he’d rarely been as lucky as that day! The whole tour was an incredible experience. Vorsø had always enchanted me and to finally see it for myself was a dream come true.

As the sun began to set, it was time to make our way back through the overgrown forest and back to the mainland through the water which now came up to our knees. A short adventure had come to an end, but it left a lasting impression and a memory that will be cherished forever. Our visit exceeded all my expectations.

I can’t wait for the day I’ll be able to return to Vorsø – or maybe even visit Vorsø Kalv, a new dream that emerged as we watched the deer cross over to the islet from afar.

Keen to explore Vorsø?

If you’re interested in exploring a unique part of Denmark, unlike anywhere else in the country, where nature has taken over and is left to evolve as it naturally would without any human intervention, consider booking a tour to Vorsø! It’s worth every penny.

Tour duration: 4 hours

Price: 200 DKK per person

Starting point: Brigsted, at the end of Vorsøvej just south of Søvind

Remember to bring: Clothes that may get wet and water shoes for the walk across the water, clothes that cover your body for the walk on the island (it’s full of stinging nettles, gnats and ticks!), a good camera and binoculars!

For more information on dates and how to book, click here.