A day on Femø, a frosty winter wonderland

The snow had fallen in the week. Finally. After most of Denmark had already seen snow, I had yet to experience any. Lolland generally doesn’t get as much snow as the rest of the country, but I kept my hopes up for a heavy snowfall. In early February, it finally happened. It snowed. Not a huge amount, but enough to paint the fields white.

So the following weekend, I decided to take a trip out to an island off the coast of Lolland. I went to Femø, an island with just 110 inhabitants, which my colleagues raved about. Unlike most of Lolland, Femø is hilly and thus offers slightly more challenging hiking routes than I’ve been used to since moving to Lolland last November! To say I was excited would be an understatement!

I woke up early Saturday morning and peeked out through the curtains. The sky was blue with some cloud covering, and the snow was still on the ground. Perfect. I jumped on my bike and rode to Rødby where I caught the first of two busses which would take me to the ferry in Kragenæs. 50 minutes and a gorgeous ferry journey later, I arrived on Femø.

I was met by a snow-covered landscape of low beach cliffs and vast fields. Upon arrival, I already knew I’d have to return. Femø is too beautiful for just one visit, and I desperately want to return for an overnight stay during the summer.

I’d plotted out a hiking route of approximately 14 km, which would take me through most of the island, including its two villages, Nørreby and Sønderby. I set off from the harbour, following a road going northwest through a small settlement. But I quickly got distracted as I noticed a path leading down to a snow-covered beach. I followed it and was met with a beautiful view. The path seemed to go on around the coast, but I decided to stick to my original plan and leave the coastal trail for my summer visit. I continued along my chosen route and soon reached a tiny lake that was completely ice-covered. With the clear and crisp air and the snow-covered grounds, Femø looked like a true winter wonderland.

Although the weather was beautiful, I was really cold throughout the day as the wind was strong. But I didn’t mind. I’m a winter girl, and for me, there’s nothing better than sun, crisp air and snow on the ground. It makes for some beautiful pictures too.

Some kilometers further along the hilly roads of the north part of Femø, I entered the first village, Nørreby. I was met with an abundance of yellow half-timbered thatched cottages, beautifully spread out with lots of trees in between them. Nørreby proved to be quite a gorgeous village.

I reached the tiny village park, which is dotted with bronze sculptures by Hanne Varming, all depicting Amalie, a local baker. As I stood there looking out at the park and the quaint cottages beyond it, I felt an instant admiration for the island, and a desire to one day live on one myself. Life on Femø seems so peaceful, so beautiful.

I paid a quick visit to Femø Kro, which was obviously closed due to the current Covid-19 restrictions, but they had a menu outside. And guess what, they have a vegan summer dish! I can’t wait to try it when I return later in the year!

I left the hilly village behind and headed for the northern coast and the tiny settlement of Barkmose, which consists of a few houses and farms. I took a little detour from my route to see the coast, and was surprised to find a beach that wasn’t covered in snow! It looked like a wonderful place to take a dip – in the summer, of course!

I came by a frozen stream and three tiny lakes, all frozen too. Soon after, I walked to the very east of the island to the tiny summer house area, which offered an even nicer beach, also without snow. I let my hiking boots take a dip, but I’m no winter swimmer myself. Even though it was tempting!

Back on the road, I headed to the other small village on the island, Sønderby, which I didn’t find quite as beautiful as Nørreby.

I left the village shortly after to head to the southern part of the island, down hilly roads and past isolated farms. The wind grew stronger and dark clouds replaced the blue sky, so I decided to head for the harbour to catch the 3 PM ferry. I’d originally booked the 5 PM ferry, but the hike had taken less time than I thought and I was getting cold. Also, I knew I would return, so two hours less wouldn’t matter too much.

I returned to Sønderby and headed for the last place I wanted to see before catching the ferry, Femø’s tiny church. It was built around the beginning of the 16th century, which is quite late compared to the rest of the country. Before it was built, the inhabitants had to sail to the nearby island of Fejø to attend church services. I tried the door and to my surprise, it was open. There was not a soul to be found, just me alone in the tiny church which I discovered is adorned with a few colourful murals.

The sun came out again as I left the church behind, but my tired legs were ready to go home. I soon reached the harbour and watched as the ferry docked and picked me up as the only passenger. A wonderful day was over, and I’d discovered yet another Danish island that I absolutely love. The list is constantly growing!

Travel info on Femø

GETTING THERE: A ferry departs many times daily from Kragenæs on Lolland, arriving on Femø ca. 50 minutes later. Book your ticket here!

GETTING AROUND: It’s possible to bring a car onboard the ferry, but I recommend either walking or biking. The island is tiny and you can comfortably walk the route I did in 5-6 hours including time for breaks. Bicycles can be rented at Femø Kro in Nørreby.

ACCOMMODATION: If you fancy staying overnight on Femø, there are quite a few options. For fellow budget folks, there is a tent site and two shelters with nearby toilets, shower and a small kitchen. Camping in your own tent costs 50 DKK per person and sleeping in a shelter costs 60 DKK per person. Book a spot here! If you’d rather sleep in a bed, there are also options for you, for example at Femø Kro or at a bed & breakfast. See more here.

EATING AND DRINKING: As of February 2021, there is no supermarket on the island. There are a few cafés and restaurants, although these have limited opening hours outside of the high season. Your safest bet is to bring food with you!

PUBLIC TOILETS: You can find a public toilet at the harbour, in front of the yellow building to the left of where the ferry docks.

Hiking route description: The highlights of Femø

The hike begins and ends at the harbour. Take a left turn onto Askhavnsvej and walk through the small settlement by the harbour. Follow the road around the corner and then take a left at Kongevejen. Follow the road until you see Gåsemosevej to your right. Take this road and you’ll soon reach Nørreby. When you reach the village, turn left onto Askhavnsvej and you’ll soon see the tiny park with bronze sculptures. Continue around Askhavnsvej until you reach Femø Kro and take the next left onto Langemose.

Follow Langemose all the way around until you reach a crossroad, then turn left onto Kalvemosevej. After about 600 meters, you’ll turn a corner and will soon see a path going left towards the ocean. Follow this path down to the beach and then continue south along the beach path. Stay on the path until you reach a grassy spot with some boats, then head up the path to the left of the last summer houses and back to the road.

Turn right onto Issemosevej and follow it to the village of Sønderby. Take the first left onto Madsens Vænge and turn left again at Præstevangen. Then take the third left onto Kangs Stub and follow the second road to the southernmost part of the island. Follow it around the bend where it becomes Nystængevej and you’ll soon reach Sønderby again. Turn left onto Kirkehældevej and follow it until you reach Kirke Allé to your left. Follow this road to the church and continue around to Pigmosevej. Turn left and you’ll soon be back at the harbour.

The route is 14 km along paved roads and paths, and it takes 5-6 hours including breaks. It’s an easy route which is also suitable for cycling.