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Denmark Outdoor travel

Summer on Femø: Camping on an idyllic island in southern Denmark

Back in the winter of 2021, I spent a day walking along the frosty country roads of Femø, a small island off the coast of Lolland in Smålandshavet (‘the small-land sea’). I fell in love with the tranquility of the place, as well as the sheer beauty of the landscapes which is much hillier than the surrounding islands. I knew that I had to return.

Four months later, I finally did. I brought along Kanzi for an overnight stay at the campsite in the middle of the island. Kanzi is a dog who unfortunately passed over half a year after this trip. I lived with him and his family on a farm on Lolland for two years, and he joined me on a few weekend adventures. He was a great travel buddy!

We caught the ferry from Kragenæs on Lolland on a hot and sunny day, and after an hour on the calm ocean, we arrived on the island and walked to the campsite where I set up our little green tent. Two little boys from a Danish/American family came over to say hello to Kanzi. They were staying in a shelter near our tent.

We spent the rest of the day wandering the cozy streets of the island, revisiting some of my favourite places, and Kanzi enjoyed a little swim in the ocean (he was such a water lover!). We also explored a bunch of narrow trails I’d missed on my first visit, which allowed me to see Femø in a new light and discover its wild and untamed inland with all the secrets it keeps.

It was really nice to see Femø without snow on the ground, and get a feel of what it’s like to live there in both seasons. I enjoyed both equally, and thought that the island looked just as beautiful with or without snow. It was also lovely to just aimlessly wander and not have any sightseeing on the agenda. It was really relaxing and just what I needed after weeks of excavations.

In the evening, we went for another walk and randomly stumbled upon a cozy little street, known locally as Eventyrstrædet (or ‘the Fairytale Street’), where trolls, witches and fairytale characters hide in crooked old tree trunks.

Afterwards, we perched ourselves on a bench overlooking the hilly countryside and I read my favourite book about Mongolia in the hours leading up to sunset. And then it was time to get cozy inside the tent. Kanzi was as good as gold and slept soundly next to my feet all night.

After a nice lie-in, we caught a late morning ferry back to Lolland and travelled back home to the farm.

This was my last adventure with Kanzi before he passed over. I’m so thankful that I got to spend this precious time with him. I will always treasure these memories 🤎

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