Two days before leaving Skye after our two-month adventure on the island, my younger brother Brandon and I set off for one last adventure, hiking to his favourite beach, Camas Ban near Portree. This is one of Skye’s secret spots that hardly any tourists visit!
Brandon’s friend Tani was visiting at the time, and decided to join us for the hike. We set off in the morning from Portree and walked along the main road out of the town towards Broadford until there was no longer any footpath. Then we headed down to the coast, hoping that the tide would be low enough to allow us to cross the water to the village of Penifiler without getting too wet – instead of hiking all the way around it. But what seemed like a great idea at first, soon turned out to be quite terrible. After hiking through mud and low water for a while, we came to a point where we had to cross a river to get any further – or turn all the way back.
We decided that getting wet was more fun than turning back, so we just waded right through the knee-deep river, which was freezing in the early March air! Brandon and Tani took their shoes off but soon regretted it as the river bed was full of sharp rocks. Luckily, I had been too lazy to take mine off!
At least the weather gods were kind to us as they had provided a blue sky with clouds beautifully reflecting in the low water.
Getting up to the road from the water was difficult to say the least as it went through high brush. After battling trees and prickly bushes for what seemed like half an eternity, we finally stood on solid ground again. What a relief.
We followed the road out of Penyfiler to the last house on the road, and then walked along a footpath to an old house known as the Faraway House due to its location at the end of the world (well, almost!). A small seal colony welcomed us as we walked closer to the house which looked like it had been abandoned many years ago.
Leaving the Faraway House behind, we walked up a hill, and the tiny isolated Camas Ban Beach came into view below us. Following a sheep trail, we made our way down to the black sand beach which is the only sandy beach near Portree.
Despite this, the beach is rarely visited even by locals, but this has more to do with its remote location than anything. Because beauty is something it has plenty of!
With the sun shining brightly and the water crystal clear, it felt like a cool summer’s day. Brandon and Tani went in the ocean while I relaxed and explored the beach. I found a little rock pool that resembled the bright turquoise colours of the popular Fairy Pools!
Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay all day as I had a shift at work later that afternoon. So we headed back over the hill and towards Portree, this time along the road instead of through the tidal ocean.
When we got back onto the main road, it didn’t take long before we were picked up by a kind man from the south of Skye who brought us back to Portree, our wonderful temporary home.
Hiking route description: Penifiler to Camas Ban and back
The hike begins in the village of Penifiler just south of Portree. Follow Penifiler Road to its end and then continue along a footpath following the coast to the last house, the Faraway House. Then hike up the hill behind the house following a sheep trail until you see the beach below you. Make your way down to the beach. When returning, hike back up the hill and cut across the landscape towards Penifiler Road and walk back to the village.
The hike is around 4 km long, takes 1-2 hours and is of moderate difficulty.
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