My adventure in Samarkand started with a bit of a hiccup, right on the heels of my time in Tashkent. Back in January, when I booked all my train tickets in advance (since seats tend to sell out quickly), I somehow managed to book my Samarkand ticket for the wrong date. I only realized the mistake when the conductor couldn’t scan my ticket – cue instant stress, confusion, and panic. How did this happen? I’m usually so meticulous with my travel plans! Would I even get a seat? What if there were none left?!
Luckily, coming from a much more expensive country, the financial hit wasn’t too bad – a new ticket cost me just 270.000 sum (~143 DKK), roughly the price of a cheap meal in Denmark. And as if the travel gods were looking out for me, I managed to snag a seat on the next train, which was leaving just 30 minutes later! The relief was immense – not only could I stick to my itinerary, but I also wouldn’t lose much time in Samarkand!
Samarkand is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia, with a history dating back to at least the 8th-7th centuries BC. The city prospered from its location on the Silk Road between China, Persia and Europe, serving as a major hub for trade and culture. Samarkand is renowned for its Islamic scholarship, rich craft traditions, and stunning architecture, especially its turquoise tile mosaics adorning mosques and madrasahs (educational institutions), which has come to symbolize the Silk Road. The city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001.
The train ride took just over two hours, passing endless flat landscapes and small villages before snow-capped mountains emerged in the distance – a reminder that Tajikistan was just around the corner.
At the station, I waited far too long for a bus to Registan, where my hostel was located. After 45 minutes of watching buses go everywhere but my destination, I gave up and took a tram instead. It dropped me off about two kilometres from my hostel, but the walk through the car-free city centre, past breathtaking sights I’d soon revisit, was well worth it – a refreshing change from bustling Tashkent!
After dropping off my bags and grabbing a quick snack, I set out to explore. Finally, I was on the Silk Road, in a city so stunning it was almost overwhelming! Naturally, my first stop was Registan Square – not just because it was close to my hostel, but because it’s the most iconic landmark in all of Uzbekistan.
Registan was the heart of Samarkand during its golden age under the Timurid Empire (1370-1507). The square is framed by three grand madrasahs – Ulugh Beg Madrasah from the early 15th century, Sher-Dor Madrasah from the early 17th century and Tilya-Kori Madrasah from the mid-17th century. All three are considered masterpieces of Persian architecture and a symbol of not only Samarkand, but Uzbekistan as a whole.
I paid 100,000 sum (~53 DKK) for entry and a photography permit, and it was worth every bit. For over an hour, I wandered through the three grand madrasahs, climbing every staircase and exploring every hidden corner. The only downside was the many souvenir shops inside each madrasah, but they didn’t take away from the sheer magnificence of the place. Tilya-Kori, in particular, is breathtaking – the intricate turquoise, gold, white, and deep blue details made for one of the most stunning interiors I’ve ever seen.
Later, I grabbed a meal at a cozy restaurant on Islam Karimov Street, a charming, car-free road that connects many of the city’s main sights. Unlike Tashkent, Samarkand is wonderfully walkable. My meal – salad, bread, and a soda – was delicious and only cost me 58,000 sum (~31 DKK).
Next, I visited the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, one of Samarkand’s most significant landmarks. Entry cost 50,000 sum (~27 DKK). Once among the largest and most magnificent mosques of the Islamic world, it is considered a masterpiece of the Timurid Renaissance (14th-16th centuries). By the mid-20th century, only ruins remained, but extensive restoration during the Soviet era brought much of its former grandeur back to life.
Right next door, the Siyab Bazaar drew me in with its lively yet relaxed atmosphere – much less pushy than Tashkent’s Chorsu Bazaar. The stalls had beautiful goods, and I couldn’t resist buying two hand-embroidered pieces; a midnight blue cardigan and a baby pink scarf. I love them both!
I crossed the bridge over the highway and walked uphill towards Afrasiyab, a large archaeological park. Along the way, I stopped to explore the stunning Hazrat Khizr Mosque, which, to my surprise, was free to visit.
The mosque was built in 1855 on the site of an ancient mosque, and is linked to the legendary prophet Khizr. The original mosque, dating back to the Arab conquest in the 8th century, was destroyed by the Mongols in 1220. The current structure was later restored and expanded, with its final renovations completed in 1919. In 2018, it became the site of Uzbekistan’s first president, Islam Karimov’s, mausoleum.
I walked through Hazrati Khizr Cemetery, looking for a way into Afrasiyab. A few stones and a low fence blocked the path, but when I asked two men nearby, they simply waved me through. Stepping into Afrasiyab felt like entering another world – just beyond, Samarkand buzzed with streets full of locals and tourists, but here, I was completely alone. Rolling hills stretched around me, pottery shards scattered underfoot, and in the distance, a lone herder tended his sheep. It was a rare, peaceful moment.
Afrasiyab is the oldest part of Samarkand. It was inhabited from around 500 BC until the Mongol invasion in 1220 AD. Now it’s a quiet, grassy landscape that hides layers of history beneath its hills.
After a few hours of wandering through Afrasiyab, I reached the Obi Rahmat neighborhood at its northern edge. From there, I walked to the Prophet Daniel Mausoleum, located on the shore of Siab, a small tributary of the Zerafshan River. I paid 30,000 sum (~16 DKK) for entry, which was worth it to see the 18-metre-long sarcophagus, which reputedly holds the remains of the prophet Daniel.
I then began the long walk back to the centre, passing through Shah-i-Zinda Cemetery on my way to my final stop – the stunning Shah-i-Zinda complex. Maps.me showed a connecting path, but it didn’t mention I’d have to jump a gate! The official entrance was a kilometer away, and after a long day of walking, I wasn’t taking that detour. The complex features over 20 mausoleums, renowned for their intricate tile work and history dating back to the 14th century. It felt like a smaller yet equally breathtaking version of Registan!
After exploring Shah-i-Zinda, I walked back to Registan to catch the sunset and see it illuminated at night. The sunset was hidden behind clouds, but as dusk fell, the lights turned on, and the city came alive – a stunning way to end the day!
I sat down at a nearby restaurant for a much-needed meal of vegetable dumplings and fries after a long day of walking. Before heading to my hostel, I took one last look at Registan in the dark. While beautiful, dusk had showcased its colors best. Finally, it was time to check in and unwind for the evening.
The next morning, I slept in to catch up on rest since my train wasn’t until 12:15 PM. Before leaving Samarkand, I made time for one last sight – Gur-e Amir, the mausoleum of Timur Lenk, one of the greatest Turco-Mongol conquerors and the founder of the Timurid Empire. This stunning landmark played a key role in Central Asian architecture and later influenced Mughal tombs in India like Humayun’s Tomb and the Taj Mahal.
Luckily, it was just a short walk from my hostel, making for a perfect morning visit. Like most other historic buildings in Samarkand, its tile mosaics are absolutely breathtaking, and the golden interior is particularly stunning.
With that, it was time to head to the station and catch my train to Bukhara, another gem of the Silk Road! Samarkand had been everything I dreamed of and more – every corner filled with beauty and wonder. After exploring Bukhara and Khiva in the days that followed, I can confidently say that Samarkand is my favourite of Uzbekistan’s famous silk road cities!
Leave a Comment