Som perler på en snor: A bike ride to six tiny marinas on southern Lolland

“Som perler på en snor”.

This is a Danish expression which means “like pearls on a string”, and it perfectly describes the tiny marinas of southern Lolland. Dotted along the coastline, from Stubberup Havn in the east to Lundehøje Havn in the west, these six tiny marinas are beautiful havens among the flat agricultural lands and wetlands that make up the landscape of southern Lolland. On an incredibly warm Sunday in June last year, I set out on a long bike journey to explore them all!

Leg 1: Home to Kjærstrup

In the early afternoon, I biked out from the farm I used to call home and headed towards my first stop, twelve kilometres away. I biked along the old railway trail which I’d hiked 1,5 year earlier when I’d first moved to Lolland. Shortly before I reached the little town of Holeby, I turned right onto Nystedvej and then proceeded to follow Kærstrupvej to my first destination.

I biked past Fuglse Church from the early 12th century, and soon after arrived at Kærstrup, an old seat farm from the 13th century, although the manor that stands today was built in 1765. Kærstrup is privately owned so I couldn’t get a closer look. In fact, I was shooed off by a woman when I tried. There were no privacy signs anywhere, so I assumed that I could walk around it like many other manors on Lolland, but nope. I did get to see a gorgeous view of the manor reflecting itself in the surrounding moat, though.

Leg 2: Kjærstrup to Dalbakkegård

The next leg was a lot shorter, just four kilometres, but it ended up taking me quite some time as I discovered the cutest little local museum in the quaint village of Flårup. Of course, I had to stop to explore! The museum had everything from Neolithic flint tools to early modern artefacts, all collected from the local area. I met a lady while approaching the museum who said I could go in and have a look for free – it doesn’t get better than that!

I then headed to Dalbakkegård, a farm shop that I’d wanted to visit for a while. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much stock at all, so I continued on my way and headed towards the first marina…

Leg 3: Dalbakkegård to Stubberup Havn

From the farm shop, I biked eleven kilometres towards Stubberup Havn, passing by the salmon-coloured Herritslev Church from the early 13th century and lots of quaint country roads full of historic dream houses.

In Herritslev, I stumbled upon a little flea market full of antiques. It wasn’t too pricey so I bought two wooden spoons with decorated ivory handles, an antique candle holder and a wooden necklace!

Moments later, I biked into Stubberup Havn, a small and cozy marina with a few small gatherings and people out for swims. I sat by myself on a pier for lunch and just enjoyed the wonderful atmosphere and the view of the calm ocean with the islet of Egholm in the distance. It felt great to have a proper rest as the 30+ degrees were getting the better of me! Thankfully, dark clouds warned of an upcoming rainstorm, much needed to clear the thick air.

As I got up to leave Stubberup Havn behind, it started to rain a little. What a relief!

Leg 4: Stubberup Havn to Høvænge Havn

The rain soon stopped as I cycled my way towards Høvænge Havn. I’d already done thirty kilometres but I surprisingly wasn’t feeling tired yet. I usually hate biking but it’s a breeze when there’s no wind!

The next nine kilometres went along country roads with cute half-timbered houses, fields full of donkeys and cows, and into the two forests, Egholm Skov and Gammel Fredskov. I took a small detour to see Egholm, a beautiful half-timbered manor from 1734.

Not long after, I reached Høvængestenen, the largest rock on Lolland! Legend says that the rock was thrown from the west towards Nysted by trolls, but it was so heavy that it didn’t make it the whole way and instead ended up at Høvænge. Another legend tells of some small creatures that retrieved the rock from the bottom of Lake Søndersø in Maribo and then buried all their gold and silver under it before leaving Lolland – whether that is true remains a mystery as the rock is obviously way too heavy to move! However, you might be in luck if you bring freshly baked bread to the rock, as this is said to make it turn over!

The little marina of Høvænge is located very close to the rock. It’s a very cozy marina with small red boathouses. There were hardly any people there, just me and a man with his dog staying overnight in their motorhome!

Leg 5: Høvænge Havn to Sandager Havn

The next four kilometres took me through Høvænge Skov and along more quiet country roads. I met hardly any cars that day – one of the things I love the most about Lolland!

I reached Sandager Havn, another adorable marina which was completely empty of people. It was just me and the birds among the quaint black boathouses. While all the marinas are very similar, they all have something different to offer. Sandager has a shelter and paid spaces for motorhomes, as well as a fantastic view over to the islets of Tjørneholm and Kalveholm.

Leg 6: Sandager Havn to Handermelle Havn

Just four kilometres further along the coast lies Handermelle Havn with a view of the Hylleholm islet. Just like Sandager, the boathouses there are painted black. There is also a small toilet, but after having a peek inside, I definitely wouldn’t recommend using it!

The marina in Handermelle is very old and dates back to at least 1552 when it was first mentioned! Back then, the farmers used the marina to ship goods. Today, the marina is only used by local fishermen, just like the other small marinas in the area.

Leg 7: Handermelle Havn to Errindlev Havn

The last two marinas of the day were some I’d already visited before but by car and very briefly. I was keen to see them again and explore them properly.

Errindlev Havn was up next, seven kilometres of country and forest roads away from Handermelle Havn. Golden hour was already approaching when I reached the row of houses leading down to the harbour, but luckily, the sun sets very slowly in Denmark in the summer, so I still had plenty of time to explore before darkness would set in.

Errindlev Havn is the largest of the six marinas and it has two shelters for overnight stays. In the distance, I could see the lighthouse out on Hyllekrog, one of my favourite areas on Lolland!

I was alone at the marina for a while, until a large family arrived to celebrate a 25th birthday. They’d brought a boat and went for a trip in the calm sea. I secretly wished I could’ve joined them!

Leg 8: Errindlev Havn to Lundehøje Havn

As soon as I left Errindlev Havn behind, I met the cutest little kittie on the side of the road. He was a bit nervous so we didn’t hang out for long. I went on my way, another four kilometres along Lolland’s quiet country roads to the last marina of the day; Lundehøje Havn.

This one turned out to be my favourite. It’s very small and cute with rows of colourful boathouses that looked especially beautiful with the sun setting behind them. I sat on a bench for a short break to rest my tired body, listened to the song of two cuckoo birds and watched swans swim in the calm evening sea.

Leg 9: Lundehøje Havn to home

After a loooong day of way too many kilometres and way too much sun, it was finally time for the last stretch to home. I still had eleven kilometres to go, and although I was exhausted and my butt hurt like anything, it was an enjoyable ride. Mainly because of the gorgeous sunset that I got to witness as I rode, but also because of how quiet my surroundings were and because of all the beautiful places I saw along the way.

I met a highland coo and rode right through the village of Errindlev, which I think is one of the coziest on Lolland. And shortly before I got home, I passed by the majestic Lungholm manor from 1853.

I got home at 10.15 PM after nine hours and 66 kilometres of biking!

66 kilometres is definitely a new record for me – and I can’t believe I did it in unbearably hot weather too! Despite the hardships I had to endure, this was one of my favourite adventures on Lolland. I love the southern part of the island as that’s the area I called home, and these cute little marinas only solidified that love!