Subotica is known as one of Serbia’s prettiest cities as it has one of the world’s largest collections of Art Nouveau architecture from the beginning of the 20th century.
Subotica is located in the far north of the country, on the border to Hungary, and is home to a population of 95,000. Historically speaking, Subotica was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the Second World War. Even today, there are more Hungarians than Serbs living in the city, as well as a considerable Croat population, making the city uniquely multicultural. The outskirts of the city look like any other large Serbian city, run-down and the very opposite of beautiful, but the city centre certainly makes up for it. With its many elaborately detailed Art Nouveau buildings and narrow tree-lined streets, Subotica is most definitely worth a visit, even if it is far off the “typical” tourist trail in Serbia. The city is a treat for anyone interested in culture and architecture!
Since we had the whole weekend off during the Borđoš 2022 archaeological project, and my colleagues were heading to Novi Sad and Belgrade where I’d already been, I decided to go on a little solo adventure to Subotica. I’d heard from many locals that it’s an absolute must-see, and since it was now my second time in northern Serbia without making it further north than Kikinda, I decided to finally make the trip up to Subotica.
I was full of expectations for the city, and Subotica certainly didn’t disappoint. I arrived Saturday afternoon and golden hour was already approaching. My accommodation, Hostel Put Svile, is conveniently located in the same building as the bus station, so I quickly dropped off my stuff and headed into the city centre to snap some pictures in the beautiful evening light.
I only spent one night and two half days in Subotica, but the city is small so it was enough for me, and I even made it to the nearby village of Palić for a little walk by its lake, too! Although Subotica is small and is easily seen in a day, I recommend staying for at least one night so you can experience sunset. The details of the Art Nouveau buildings just stand out much better in the magic of golden hour.
Below is a list of my favourite things to do in Subotica, covering everything from the city’s breathtakingly beautiful city hall, to the very best of its Art Nouveau buildings and the locals’ favourite getaway spot at Lake Palić.
Stroll down Korzo to Trg Slobode
Any tour of Subotica should start with its beautiful pedestrian street, Korzo, which connects to Trg Slobode, the main square. The street is brimming with colourful Art Nouveau buildings, and the side streets leading into the main square have a great selection of cafés and restaurants, unlike the rest of the city where it’s difficult to find anything other than fast food joints and kiosks.
Have a look inside the city hall
The city hall is the most prominent landmark of Subotica. Dominating the main square and the city skyline, this 1908 Art Nouveau masterpiece is home to the city’s administrative offices, banks and shops. Usually, you need to join a tour to explore the interior of the city hall, which runs from Tuesday to Saturday, starting at the entrance at 12 PM.
I was in Subotica on a Sunday, so I wasn’t able to join the tour, but I got lucky as I found the main door open. I walked in, hoping to find someone to ask for access. I met several men cleaning the enormous building, and one of them said I could have a look around, so I did. I spent ages going from room to room, in awe of the elaborate and varying details.
It’s definitely not just the exterior of the city hall that deserves attention; the interior is just as beautiful. I felt incredibly lucky for the chance to look around the city hall – and on my own, too! Several workers walked past me but said nothing. They just smiled at me, so I continued my explorations. It wasn’t until I was about to leave that I realized I probably shouldn’t have been there. The door was closed behind me as I walked out, but anyhow I felt really lucky to have gotten this amazing opportunity to explore independently.
If you’re not as lucky as me to find the door open, I recommend going on the tour. If you’re lucky, you might even be able to go up the tower for a bird’s-eye view over the city!
Watch life go by in the Trg republike
Trg Republike (or ‘the Republic Park’) is a small park outside the city hall. It was my favourite place to relax while in Subotica. The park is set around the Blue Fountain and has an array of cafés.
There are also many benches in the park, so just choose one, enjoy the view of the city hall and watch life happen in this atmospheric part of the city.
Visit Subotica Synagogue
Subotica’s synagogue is the second-largest synagogue in all of Europe, and it’s hands-down the most beautiful synagogue I’ve seen. It was built in 1902 in elaborate Art Nouveau style, and it’s actually the only surviving Hungarian Art Nouveau synagogue in the world.
I wish that I could’ve explored the interior, but the synagogue was sadly closed during my visit. If you’d like to go inside, I’d recommend contacting the local tourism board.
Visit Subotica’s three main churches
Despite its small size, Subotica has three main churches – one for each of the three biggest religious communities in the city; the Franciscan Church of Saint Michael from 1723, the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Teresa of Avila from 1779, and the Serbian Orthodox Church from the early 18th century. The latter was the only church that was open during my visit, but all three are well worth a look even if just from the outside!
Gaze at the Reichl Palace
Reichl Palace is undoubtedly the most impressive Art Nouveau building in Subotica. The facade is a beautiful example of Hungarian Art Nouveau architecture with exquisite colours and ornate details.
The mansion used to be the home of architect Ferenc Raichle, and today, it houses the Modern Art Gallery.
Relax at Lake Palić
Want to see where all the locals go on a hot and sunny day? Then head to the tiny village of Palić, under ten minutes by bus from the centre of Subotica. Enjoy a walk or just relax by one of Serbia’s many lakes in the north. If you’re travelling around Serbia with children, this lake is the perfect destination for you. It’s very child-friendly with a huge play area and many ice cream shops!
Getting to Palić is easy. Just go to Maksima Gorkog, the main road crossing under the railway tracks, and stand on the right side of the road by the bus stop. Jump on bus number 6 for a short ride to Palić. The bus comes every 30-40 minutes and just as frequently from Palić back to Subotica. To return to Subotica, stand on the left side of the road. The ticket costs 95 RSD each way.
I took a rather spontaneous trip to Palić. I’d just come out of Lidl and was about to head to the bus station to catch a bus back to Novi Bečej when I saw bus number 6 approaching. I had decided not to visit the lake due to time pressure, but I just couldn’t help myself. I figured I could have a little walk by the lake and take the later bus to Novi Bečej. After all, it felt weird leaving Subotica without seeing the favourite hang-out spot for the locals!
Although my visit to Palić was short, I really enjoyed it. The atmosphere is great, and the area is home to some of the most beautiful Art Nouveau buildings in the region. The lake is surrounded by holiday homes, so if you’re craving a few days of relaxation, Palić is a very good option! And even if you just want a little break from the city, Palić offers many scenic walking routes and plenty of benches to relax on!
How to get to Subotica
To get to Subotica, catch a bus from Belgrade or Novi Sad. The timetable is unknown (Balkanviator is sometimes correct but not reliable), but you can get the reception at your accommodation to call the bus station or go there and ask for the timetable.
Where to stay in Subotica
For a cheap and convenient night, I recommend staying at Hostel Put Svile. It’s located in the same building as the bus station, and costs just 1500 RSD per night. I had my own tiny room with shared bathrooms, free linen and towels, and fast and stable wifi. I was also able to store luggage and wait in the garden before catching my bus back to Novi Bečej.
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