My November-December 2021: From Berlin to Norway and England

During the last two months of the year, things slowed down considerably as I spent most of my time in Berlin with trips to Norway and England to visit family and friends before returning to Denmark for the holidays at the end of the year.

The last days in Leipzig and Berlin

November began where October ended – in Leipzig, visiting my friend Mikkel with my boyfriend A. November 1st was our last day in Leipzig before returning to A’s home in Berlin. We started the day with a visit to The Monument to the Battle of the Nations, built in 1913 on the 100th anniversary of the Battle of Leipzig. The monument is GRAND but the best thing about it is the view from the top!

Mikkel had to work afterwards, so A and I headed to the city centre for some aimless exploring before meeting up with Mikkel in the evening for our fourth (fifth?) Vietnamese dinner in a row!

The following morning, it was time to say goodbye to Mikkel and head back to Berlin where I’d been since October 26th. A and I spent a few last days together walking, walking and walking, and shopping at a huge Humana thrift store with A’s sister.

Back home for some Christmas cheer

As I’ve previously addressed, I decided to slow down my travels and quit long-term solo travel – at least for the time being. As a result of this decision, I didn’t travel to eastern Europe as planned after Berlin. Instead, I went where my heart wanted to go – and that was to Solveig, my best friend, who lives in Bergen. I decided to travel overland, a long trip from Berlin, so I spent a few days at home with my family on the way.

We spent a lovely day at a huge Christmas market at Rosenholm Castle (yeah, an actual castle!!), Ellie came over for Sunday Funday, and I went on a 14-kilometre walk through the countryside of my home region. Even though the days at home were short, they were very very sweet, and just what I needed before my long journey up north.

Beautiful days with Solveig in Bergen

From home, I caught a train up north in Jutland to Hirtshals for an overnight ferry ride to Bergen. Solveig came to greet me at the dock when I arrived the next morning, to a beautiful day with sun and light rain. Atypical for Bergen, which is usually always rainy and grey. But I got lucky during my ten days in the city. Most days were beautiful!

I spent most days partly at Solveig’s office, working on this blog and learning Russian and German, and partly out and about in Bergen while Solveig was working on her ph.d. I explored Bergen’s famous 18th-century Hanseatic wharf, Bryggen. I visited two museums with Sofus, another friend who was in Bergen for a few days. I did some Christmas shopping and enjoyed the Christmas lights that were being put up all over the city centre. I visited Bergen Cathedral from 1250 and St Mary’s Church, which is the oldest existing building in the city, built in the 12th century. I tried to make burned almonds and failed miserably. I went running by Svartediket several times. I explored the Medieval Bergenhus fortress, one of the oldest and best preserved stone fortifications in Norway. And Solveig and I spent a few lovely evenings hanging out with her international friends.

In the weekend, it was time for adventures! We went on a 15-kilometre hike up a mountain above Bergen and along a scenic trail that goes past several settlements that were abandoned during the last century. And on the Sunday, in the most beautiful sunshine, we visited Hordamuseet, an open-air museum showcasing a local cultural landscape from the period 1850-1950.

With Regine in and near Stavanger

Since I was travelling overland back to Berlin, I figured it would be fun to stop in Stavanger for a few days to visit Regine, another good friend of mine, who I lived with in Greenland during my semester abroad in 2018-19.

I spent a day travelling by bus and ferries through some beautiful parts of southern Norway before arriving in Stavanger in the late afternoon. Regine was there to greet me and show me around the city before settling for a meal at an atmospheric bar.

The next morning, I spent a few hours by myself in Stavanger, revisiting everywhere Regine had showed me the evening before to see it all in daylight. I explored Gamle Stavanger, the oldest part of the city which consists of 173 wooden white-painted buildings along narrow cobbled streets. I explored Øvre Holmegate, Stavanger’s most colourful street. I took a stroll along the pretty harbourfront, and walked up to Valborgtårnet for an amazing view over the city.

And then I met up with Regine again, and this time she brought her adorable baby along so I could meet her. We went on a roadtrip around Jæren, her gorgeous home area. She showed me a beautiful view over her hometown of Undheim, took me for a stroll along the ocean and to a gorgeous lighthouse with a small chapel inside it, and we watched the sunset at a beautiful beach with dunes before it was time to say farewell as I caught the ferry back to Denmark.

A walk through Aalborg with Lena

The sun had just rose when we docked in Hirtshals and I caught a train to Aalborg. I wasn’t staying in Denmark for long, just for a few hours to meet up with Lena, a friend I got to know while living in Greenland.

She brought her adorable baby along for a long stroll through Denmark’s fourth largest city – and for a delicious meal at a café. It was so good to catch up with her, and I really enjoyed exploring Aalborg a little!

Back in Berlin for days of sun and fun

I arrived in Berlin late at night, ready for another ten days in the city with A. Just like last time, I failed to do much exploring, with the exception of a fun weekend bike ride, plus the city’s many Christmas markets – and lots of walking without a destination.

I visited a two-storey vegan shop and accidentally bought a pair of shoes and a backpack MADE FROM PAPER (awesome, right!? AND it’s waterproof!). I spent some time blogging, and some time learning German and Russian (a crazy project, I know!). I enjoyed the beautiful November sun, and went for a morning run or two in the rain. I visited a cat café that was actual heaven. I went shopping in thrift stores and bought a few really nice pieces. A and I watched Norsemen, Black Books, Friday Night Dinner, Plebs… etc. If it’s funny and British (or occasionally Norwegian), we’ve probably watched it! We explored the city by bike, saw the amazing view from Victoria Park and biked around the former runways of the abandoned Tempelhof Airport. I also enjoyed several of Berlin’s Christmas markets, and especially loved the one at Gendarmenmarkt, arguably the prettiest square in the city.

While I was in Berlin, I also (finally) sent in my application for a UK passport, which will also confirm my dual citizenship. It’s on its way in the post as I write this!

Pet cuddles and a hike at dusk with Maria

During my time in Berlin, I took a day trip up north to visit my friend Maria in her hometown of Biesenthal. Maria and I lived together in Nuuk (with Regine – and also Charlotte and Barbara!), and I also visited her last year. I hope we can keep a tradition going to see each other at least once a year!

We spent some time cuddling her many adorable animals – she has two dogs and SEVEN cats! Oh, my heart.

Then, we went on a roadtrip to Boitzenburger Land to go on a six-kilometre hike into a dark forest with the ruins of a monastery from the 13th century and a castle also from the 13th century but since damaged and rebuilt in the 1740’s.

We returned to her home in the evening for a meal with her family and more pet cuddles, before it was time to say goodbye.

Christmas market fun in Kiel

On December 3rd, it was time to bid farewell to Berlin as I caught the bus to Kiel to spend a night at the Christmas markets with my buddies from Serbia!

I was actually on my way to Flensburg to meet up with my family for our annual German Christmas market trip when I had the idea to stop by Kiel on the way. It was so good to catch up with everyone again, and especially to see that Lenka (our excavation puppy) hadn’t forgotten me!

Joyful time with my family

The following day, I headed further north to Flensburg to meet up with my family. We spent a lovely day at the town’s cozy Christmas market – and Ellie especially loved going around the carousel with her aunty (or arty as she calls me!).

I joined my family for home as my younger brother and I were travelling to England together a few days later. I enjoyed the quiet days at home with long walks in the forests and quality time with my family.

A trip home to England and two farewells

And then it was time to go to my other home, Thetford in England. I’ve spent many summers in Thetford, visiting family, but this time Brandon and I weren’t going for a jolly holiday. Unfortunately, we were there to attend the funeral of my mum’s cousin Jason, and also to say goodbye to his mum, Ingrid, who passed over just four months before him.

As tough as it was to say goodbye, we were happy to spend some days with our family, to be there for them during this incredibly difficult time, and to reconnect with our English heritage.

It was nice to walk our favourite streets in Thetford again, to buy all the vegan goodies in Tesco’s and to watch all the fun quiz shows that just seem to always be on the telly.

Another ten days in Berlin – with a day trip to Potsdam

From Stansted Airport, I flew to Berlin – yes, again – to spend another ten days with A.

This time, I had my camera with me everywhere we went, and everywhere I explored alone when A was working. I was a true tourist and I managed to see a lot during those ten days!

I saw the view of Berlin at dusk from the Victory Column. I explored the Berliner Dom at golden hour. I walked to three of Berlin’s six modernism housing estates that are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. I walked through Tiergarten on a beautiful sunny day and saw the view from Victoriapark – again. I went on a two-hour guided tour through the interior of Tempelhof Airport – one of the coolest experiences I’ve had in Berlin! I explored Charlottenburg Palace and the surrounding gardens. I did lots of Christmas shopping and also spent lots of time working as a proofreader for an archaeological journal, a temporary job for a few weeks that I really enjoyed doing (I mean, who doesn’t love getting paid to read about prehistoric burial sites and settlement structures!?).

In the weekend, A and I went on a long bike ride past an abandoned railway bridge to the East Side Gallery, an open-air gallery showcasing the longest surviving section of the Berlin Wall, and to Spreepark, an abandoned amusement park that we unfortunately couldn’t get into (and we couldn’t sneak in either… I tried and then spotted a guard ehehe). We ended the day at my favourite restaurant in Berlin – Phantasia in Kreuzberg – where they have the world’s most delicious mock duck (seriously… so good!). The next day, we went on a day trip to Potsdam, which is a city of great importance as it was a residence of the Prussian Kings and the German Kaiser until 1918. There is an incredible amount of UNESCO sites in Potsdam, including several 17th-century palaces and a Russian village! We also shopped at markets and I found the most beautiful ring ever (after leaving my amber ring behind in the bathroom at Stansted Airport – ooops).

On my last evening in Berlin, I hung out at a vegan-friendly café before meeting up with A to go to the Tadshikische Teestube, a gorgeous Tajik teahouse in the very centre of the city. I love Berlin for all its curiosities like this one!

A snowy Christmas at home

I left Berlin for the last time this year on December 23rd to go home for Christmas. It started snowing as I neared the border to Denmark, and I was excited to see that it was staying on the ground. For the first time in eleven years, we had a white Christmas!

The Christmas days were magic. Three days of clear blue skies, frosty air and glistening snow on the ground. Early morning walks to watch the sunrise. Lots of kittie cuddles with Holly and mischief with Ellie and Sam. A sunset walk to a creepy abandoned house from 1959 in the middle of Sondrup Forest. Family “hygge” in our cozy home and a trip to Skals to visit my dad’s aunt Ninna. A walk to Bjørnkær, the ruins of a medieval hillfort near my hometown. A cozy afternoon spent celebrating my older brother’s 30th birthday.

I’m already excited for Christmas 2022 – just 348 days to go!

Welcoming the new year in Aarhus

And then the fog came. And with the fog, A and his sister arrived too. They travelled to Aarhus, the second-largest city in Denmark and the closest city to my hometown, for three days of fun.

I really enjoyed showing them around – I took them to all of my favourite places in Aarhus; the Old Town Museum, the forests and beaches of Moesgaard and the cathedral. We also found a view above the city centre at the Salling shopping centre and explored Aarhus Ø, the new and expensive (and ugly) neighbourhood in the city. And A bid farewell to 2021 with not one but TWO dips in the ocean (he’s actually crazy!).

We welcomed the new year with a fun party with Brandon’s friends and a mix of Danish and Russian traditions – including our Queen’s annual speech and Putin’s annual speech! And then we jumped off the sofa, leaving all the hardships of 2021 behind and welcoming 2022 with many hopes and dreams.

Destinations visited in November-December 2021

• Leipzig, Berlin, Biesenthal, Boitzenburger Land, Kiel, Flensburg and Potsdam, Germany
• Hov, Odder, Aalborg, Sondrup, Skals and Aarhus, Denmark
• Bergen, Stavanger and Jæren, Norway
• Thetford, England

Highlights

• Catching up with Solveig, Mikkel, Regine, Lena, Maria and the Serbia crew. Time with friends is so valuable, and I hope to see much more of them in the future.
• The hike above Bergen. We were lucky to have really beautiful weather during the weekend, so Solveig decided to show me her favourite hike in the city, and I absolutely loved it. I can’t wait to return to Bergen for more hikes with Solveig!
• The day spent biking around Tempelhof Airport and Victoriapark. This was when I truly started enjoying Berlin. This day, A introduced me to my two favourite spots in the city!
• Phantasia, my love. For the best mock duck EVER, head to this restaurant in Kreuzburg. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!
• My family’s annual Christmas market trip – this year to Flensburg! I love this tradition so much.
• Visiting my family in Thetford. Despite everything, it was nice to spend time with them and revisit my favourite places in Thetford.
• Exploring the interior of the Tempelhof Airport. I can’t wait to share my photographs and stories from within this abandoned giant!
• Snow for Christmas! And those magic frosty days with beautiful sunrises and sunsets.
• All the precious time spent with A. Meeting him was one of the best things that happened to me in 2021.

Challenges

• Losing Jason. I’ll miss you forever, J.
• As much as I enjoyed revisiting Thetford and spending time with my English family, it was a tough few days. Farewells are always hard, but I’m thankful I was there.

Most popular post

• Goodbye to the old me: Why I’m done with long-term solo travel (Published in November) – By far the most popular post was also my most personal post to date!

The other posts

November:

• Two weeks in Novi Bečej: Life in a small town in rural Serbia – An introduction to the small town in Serbia that I spent two weeks living in back in October!
• My October 2021: From Georgia to Serbia to Berlin – Everything I got up to in October, my busiest month of 2021!
• A day in Innsbruck, the beautiful capital of the Alps – All about a summer day in beautiful Innsbruck.

December:

• Tbilisi: A heartening first meeting with Georgia – My first post from Georgia, all about its exciting capital!
• My travel year of 2021 – A recap of my 2021 travels, published on New Year’s Eve!

Most popular Instagram picture

2021 wasn’t easy on my family and I, and this post includes one of the most personal and difficult captions I’ve ever had to write.

Vis dette opslag på Instagram

Et opslag delt af Melissa Villumsen ◎ she/her (@melissavillumsen)

Coming up in January 2022

I’m back on Lolland!

On January 2nd, I arrived back in Rødby to the farm where Chico, Modig and Kanzi greeted me with hundreds of barks and kisses. I’ve started work at the museum again, and I’m excited to settle here for a while and get back to my explorations of Lolland and the surrounding islands – and Germany, which is just a ferry ride away.

I’m actually returning from my first German weekend adventure as I write this. I travelled thirteen hours to be in Berlin for 36 hours, and it was totally worth it!

For the rest of the month, I only have one trip planned so far – and that’s a weekend back home for a family party. And I feel sure the other weekends will be filled with adventures too!