Scotland’s Isle of Skye is full of gorgeous destinations, most of them well visited. The Quiraing is certainly one of them, but did you know that it’s possible to get off the beaten path, even at the Quiraing?
After a wonderful spontaneous hike to the secret beach and peninsula, An Aird, with our former colleague, Steve, my younger brother Brandon and I decided to ask him to take us on one of his Quiraing tours. Steve knows Skye better than anyone else, and in particular the Quiraing, and he knows just how to get away from the crowds to some spectacular, hidden spots.
So on a cool, sunny day in late February, we set off for the Quiraing, joined by Steve’s two adorable dogs, Blaze and Laoch.
We made a quick stop at Loch Fada on the way. Steve wanted to show us his favourite view of the Old Man of Storr, a place he says tourists often overlook on their way towards the iconic rock formation.
We drove further north on the Trotternish peninsula and turned to the left along the narrow Quiraing Road, which brought us inland to the mountains. Upon entering the parking lot, it became obvious just how popular the Quiraing is – even in low season. Not that we could tell from the weather that it was low season. It was chilly, but the sun was out at full force. A perfect day to visit one of Skye’s most beautiful spots.
The geologically intriguing Quiraing is located on the eastern face of the mountain, Meall na Suiramach, which is the northernmost summit of the Trotternish Ridge. This entire ridge was formed by landslides, the largest of its kind in the UK, which started some 175 million years ago during the Jurassic period. This landslide also created the Old Man of Storr. But the Quiraing is the only part of it that is still moving! In fact, the landscape is in constant motion, shifting a few centimeters each year, resulting in yearly repairs of the roads. This alone makes the area an interesting place to visit, but it is the gorgeous sceneries with steep cliffs, rock pinnacles and rolling hills that bring in the crowds!
A very popular hiking trail starts at the parking lot, and goes around the mountain in a 6,8 km loop. Most tourists only hike a short section of this path where the most insta-famous view of the Quiraing is found, but the entire circuit is well worth hiking – as well as beyond, as we were about to discover.
The first section was a very easy hike along a well-trodden path. But when we reached the first of the area’s distinctive landmarks, the Prison, Steve guided us away from the crowds and up the landmark itself to discover some incredible views.
The Prison, which is a pyramidal rocky peak, earned its name from a specific angle where it – apparently – looks like a medieval fortified tower. I couldn’t see it myself, but I was impressed by the views this landmark presented once we reached its top after climbing up the cliff face.
According to Steve, you haven’t truly seen the Quiraing if you haven’t been inside the Quiraing! I imagined some secret cave when he told us this, but inside meant behind the pinnacles, the most well-known being the 37 m. high Needle, a pinnacle that looks similar to those found by the Old Man of Storr.
From the Prison, we took a steep descend and then started ascending into the heart of the Quiraing. We scrambled our way up with the Needle by our side, towering high above us, and passed through a hidden passage in the cliff face. The few hikers that had joined us all the way to the Prison were gone, now we were completely alone.
Standing on a grassy area hidden beneath the tall pinnacles, all I could hear was silence. Here, the snow still lay on the ground, the sun’s rays unable to reach through the rocks. It’s easy to understand why the local folk used to hide their cattle up here, away from the Viking raiders. From below the pinnacles, it’s hard to imagine that a grassy area exists beyond them. However, the name of the Quiraing comes from the Old Norse Kví Rand, meaning ‘Round Fold’, apparently referencing this hollow beneath the rocky peaks, so the Vikings must have discovered this hiding spot at some point.
The most prominent landmark in this hidden hollow of the Quiraing is the Table, an elevated plateau which once slipped down from the summit plateau of Meall na Suiramach. The table is perfectly flat and level and does, in fact, resemble a giant table.
As we explored the area, it started snowing, magically transforming the scene into a fairytale with fresh white snow on the eminent landmark.
Eventually, our cold feet reluctantly forced us back down on the trail, soon joining the crowds once again. Little did we know, this day was one of the very last where the Quiraing would experience an influx of visitors. Soon, the world would be turned upside down by a pandemic, forcing people to stay put in their own countries, ultimately giving the Quiraing and Skye’s other popular destinations a welcome break.
I sure am glad that Brandon and I got the chance to see this incredible place before the world went haywire. And thanks to Steve, we were able to explore the area much more in depth than we ever would’ve, had we been there by ourselves.
But we weren’t quite ready to end our adventures on the Trotternish peninsula. Back at the parking lot, we met a group from Exeter that Steve had previously met. He invited them to join us for one last adventure, taking us all to a secret lake, one of his favourites on Skye.
We parked the cars near the tiny village of Dunans and walked along a short path, leading downhill towards the ocean. Suddenly, a tiny emerald lake appeared, Loch Sheanta. Like most places on Skye, this lake is also a place of legends and myths. It is told that the spring at the north end, found within a small forest, can cure a number of diseases. This spring, along with another to the south, feeds the lake with clear water, which is in parts so crystal clear that the bottom is visible.
Although the wind created waves that disturbed the crystal clear view, I could easily understand why this is one of Steve’s favourite spots. And I’m certainly thankful that he decided to share it with us all!
Interested in exploring the Quiraing in depth?
Why not do what we did and go on an incredible tour with Steve and his two adorable dogs? They know all the good spots, and Steve is a wonderful storyteller! Find out more on Steve’s website here.
This post is not sponsored, just my honest opinion about a wonderful local tour company.
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