The wild side of Nólsoy: Hiking along the rocky east coast

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Nólsoy has a mild side and a wild side. The east coast is rugged and untamed and stands in contrast to the mild west side, which is the more popular hiking destination of the two. I have done many hikes along the west coast, including all the way to the lighthouse at Borðan and recently up Eggjarklettur. But I had yet to thoroughly explore the east coast.

On an unusually sunny day on Nólsoy, I decided to go for a short walk to take some pictures for Instagram (yeah, that was my motivation that day…). I wasn’t really feeling up for a long hike, so I decided to just go to the bottom of some nearby cliffs on the east side that are only a five minute walk away from the town. I had been there before, although I had never walked as far as I did this time. I walked for as long as I could, until there was no possible way for me to get any further unless I walked back and climbed above the cliffs.

Feeling a bit more energetic, I decided to do just that. I walked back to the main road leading out of the village, and followed it for a short while until I came to an information sign on Nólsoy’s storm petrel colony, which actually happens to be the largest of its kind in the world. I knew that I wouldn’t see any storm petrels that day though, as they are only active during the night, but I do plan to go back there for a sunset/night hike to see if I can spot them!

I followed the path up to some fields with a bunch of sheep, and then walked through four entry holes in fences. Once I got to the top of the fields, I was rewarded with an amazing view of the east side cliffs and was surprised to see how different Nólsoy looks from that side! I also looked back at the tiny village, which resembled a colouful lego village from afar.

At one point, I couldn’t see the path any longer and my tired brain was telling me to turn back, but I was so close to Eggjarklettur’s rocky east side, a place I’d never seen before, so I was too curious to not continue.

I kept walking, and finding my way was easy since I had the mountain on my right and the ocean on my left at all times. Getting lost wasn’t even a possibility. I continued for as long as I could while taking in the most breathtaking views of Nólsoy. I couldn’t believe that I hadn’t seen these views before! I’m so thrilled with how Nólsoy keeps surprising me.

I walked and walked until I came to a place called Skriðutangi, where I could see the tiny peninsula of Bolstaður. Unfortunately, the mountainside was too steep to continue to Bolstaður, so my hike ended here, although I did spend a few moments taking in the view and photographing away.

When it was time to head back home, I managed to stumble upon a well-trodden path that I had somehow overlooked on the way out there. That made it so much easier to hike back home, and it only took me half an hour! Of course that was mainly because I didn’t need photo breaks on the way back, although I did stop once to photograph a cute hare that jumped around in the hills in front of me.

When I was almost back at the village, I was walking down the path through the fields and suddenly had to speed up as I was being chased by two cockerels! I was like, “DUDES, don’t you know that I’m vegan!? I won’t eat you! HEEEEEELP”. Haha, it sounds more dramatic than it was – in reality it was just me running and laughing while the two cockerels tried to catch up.

I got back safely (hehe) to the house three hours after I had left, happy to have discovered some places on Nólsoy that I’d never even seen pictures of before. Needless to say, I’m falling more and more in love with this beautiful island!

Hiking along the East coast

Follow the road south out of the village and when you get to the storm petrel sign, turn and follow that path. Walk through the holes in the fences and head east alongside Eggjarklettur until you get to the Bolstaður peninsula where the trail ends.

DO NOT venture beyond the beginning of Bolstaður if you’re without a guide, as the ground is mossy and full of rocks and hidden holes. Walking there is dangerous if you don’t know the area well.

The hike is ca. 6 km, takes 2-3 hours return and is of moderate difficulty.

Interested in exploring Nólsoy by boat?

Enjoy a unique trip around Nólsoy by boat where you’ll get to see the many hidden caves of the islands. It’s the perfect way to spot the seals, puffins and other seabirds that thrive on and around Nólsoy. The two-hour tour is available from April to October. The price starts at 2,100 DKK for 1-3 people. Read more here!

Alternatively, you could take a summer trip on the historic scooner Norðlýsið, where the captain will sail you around the island before stopping in the village. The three-hour tour is available from May to August. The price is 850 DKK per person for adults and 425 DKK for children. Read more here.