Mykines, the pearl of the North Atlantic

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On my first full day on the Faroe Islands, I decided to go to the popular bird island, Mykines, which is the westernmost island and one of the hardest to get to.

When I travelled for three weeks on Faroe Islands in March, I was unable to go there, as the ferries only sail during the summer and the helicopers from Atlantic Airways are always fully booked for Mykines. It has always been one of the main islands that I wanted to see on Faroe Islands, so this time around, I had to make it!

I caught a bus early in the morning from Tórshavn to Sørvágur on Vágar, where I got onboard the ferry for Mykines at 10.20 AM. The return ticket cost me 120 DKK, which is way more expensive than any other island on the Faroe Islands (even Suðuroy), but it was well worth it! The ferry ride was a bumpy one and I felt very blessed for my tough stomach. Other people weren’t as lucky as me though, so it was a good job that the ferry company had plenty of puke boxes ready!

Despite the bumpy ride, I really enjoyed it, as the views were amazing throughout! I stood outside for most of the 45 minutes that the ride took and enjoyed the view of Vágar with the famous waterfall in Gásadalur, the islets Tindhólmur, Gáshólmur and Drangarnir, and Mykines.

Mykines reminded me of the tropical islands of Thailand and Malaysia with its green mountains and steep cliffs, but the fog surrounding it made it look mysterious  and cold and reminded me that we were indeed in the North Atlantic.
With waves crashing against the ferry and thousands of sea birds greeting us, we finally arrived in Mykines after about an hour on the rough sea. It took the captain three attempts to sail the boat into the harbour in the village because of the crazy waves and I’m really impressed that the staff sails this route twice every day for three months! Any longer on the ferry and I think I might’ve joined those who couldn’t keep their food inside them.

Mykines village is the only settlement on the island and has a population of just 19 people. The village has 40 houses, but only 6 are inhabited year-round, the others are used as summer houses. It is a beautiful little coastal village with brightly coloured houses with turf roofs. It has a cozy café and an old church with a turf roof, which was built in 1878, but unfortunately, it was closed for visitors that day. There is also a stream flowing through the center of the village, where campers can set up their tent for the night.

There is also a public toilet, which can be very convenient, and actually works surprisingly well as a place to meet new people. At least for me, haha. I met a new friend called Mads here, who I found out is also Danish after speaking English to him for quite a while… It happens surprisingly often that I forget to ask where people are from first. Mads decided to join me on a hike to the islet Mykineshólmur that I was going to complete that day. We actually became really good friends and ended up going hiking together on Nólsoy and Kunoy as well, but more about that in later posts!

The hike from the village to Mykineshólmur only takes 3 hours in all, but add picture time to that and it’ll be more like 4 hours. It is a beautiful hike, where you are certain to see hundreds of puffins. Black and white with orange beeks and feet, with short wings, a puffy body and a wobbly walk – the puffins are absolutely gorgeous! A cuter creature is impossible to find and everyone should see these little fellows with their own eyes. Mads and I put our ears to some of the many holes in the grass, where the puffins have their nests, and we heard them singing an adorable little song! They are very photogenic as well and they just love posing, so I took millions of photos of them!

There is a 40 meter long bridge that connects Mykines with the islet and from there, there is an easy walk to the lighthouse built in 1909 on the western end of Mykineshólmur. This is the westernmost place on the Faroe Islands. Throughout the hike, there is a well-marked path to follow and while it can be steep at times, it is mostly a very easy hike and is definitely doable for anyone who isn’t afraid of heights.

By the end of the hike, I had makeup running down my face, my leggings had split at the seam and my boots were fit for the bin. I knew then that it had been a good day!

At 17.05, it was time to leave Mykines and head back to the mainland, where I caught a bus back to Tórshavn. My visit on Mykines was very enjoyable and I definitely understand why it’s a tourist favourite! I saw puffins for the first time, went on a great hike and met a new friend. It’s definitely a place that I want to visit again, but next time, I want to do the 6-hour hike to Korkadalur and Knúkur!

Interested in experiencing Mykines on a guided tour?

Mykines is notorious for ferry delays and sudden hiking restrictions, so visiting the island on a guided tour will ease your mind. It’s also a great way to learn more about the island and meet likeminded travellers! Read more here!