The world is full of exclaves, odd little slices of land that are cut off from their motherland.…
Times visited: 1
Cities visited: Melilla and Ceuta
Spain has two little-known exclaves in North Africa – the cities of Melilla and Ceuta – and I visited both during my journey through Southern Europe in the summer of 2019. After a day in Málaga, I boarded a night ferry to Melilla, across the same stretch of ocean that countless migrants attempt to cross, often in desperation and without the safety net I had. Some make it. Many don’t. I’ve never felt the weight of my privilege as much as I did in that moment.
Melilla has a dark reputation and is often referred to as “Europe’s Dirty Secret” due to its harsh treatment of people who try to cross the fortified razor-wire border from Morocco. Some might wonder why I chose to go to a place like Melilla at all. But for me, travel is about learning. And sometimes, the most uncomfortable places are the ones that teach you the most.
I spent two days in Melilla, and it was a deeply eye-opening experience. I went to see the border fence with my own eyes and read a lot to understand more about the ongoing migration crisis. I also discovered a city that felt like a bridge between two worlds, where Spanish and Moroccan influences mix in everyday life. Locals were curious about my presence and eager to talk about their complex home.
A few days later, I took a day trip to Ceuta, the other Spanish exclave, which lies just an hour’s ferry ride from Algeciras on the mainland. I thought it would strike the same emotional chord as Melilla – but it didn’t quite. From the moment I arrived, the differences were clear. There was no border control, and Ceuta felt much more Spanish in both appearance and lifestyle. While the political situation is similar, the atmosphere was less layered, less complex. The highlight was hiking up to a fortress perched on a mountain summit, offering spectacular views of the city below.