My journey to Khiva, a small yet historically rich city in Uzbekistan’s Khorazm Region, began with a long and bumpy train ride from Bukhara. The 6,5-hour journey was on a sleeper train, despite the early morning departure. No complaints from me, though – the ample legroom was a welcome luxury. It also gave me the chance to nap and recover from my 5 AM wake-up to catch the train.
As I boarded, I was handed bed linen and settled into a small, rather warm compartment with two local travellers. I spent most of the ride sleeping but also managed to get some work done on my blog while watching the endless desert stretch beyond the window. The only downside? A mid-journey bathroom break – definitely not the highlight of the trip. Let’s just say I was beyond grateful to have packed my own toilet paper.
At 1.45 PM, I finally arrived in Khiva, a city with over 2,500 years of history. Once the capital of Khwarezmia and later the Khanate of Khiva, it is now best known for Itchan Kala, its walled inner city, which became Uzbekistan’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. The renowned scholar Al-Biruni is believed to have been born here or in nearby Kath.
Khiva also has a dark past. From the 17th to the 19th century, it was a major centre of slave trade, with tens of thousands of Persians and Russians enslaved and forced into labour, including the construction of Itchan Kala’s structures. In the 19th century, Russia annexed parts of the Khanate of Khiva, making it a protectorate before fully dissolving it in 1919. By 1924, the Khorezm oasis was absorbed into modern Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan.
Today, Khiva is divided into two parts: Dichan Kala, the outer town, once protected by a wall with 11 gates, and Itchan Kala, surrounded by towering brick walls dating back to the 10th century, with the present crenellations built in the 17th century. The inner town preserves over 50 historic monuments and 250 houses, mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries.
It was a two-kilometre walk along the outskirts of the walled city to reach my family-run hostel. When I arrived, the woman checking me in was thrilled by the friendship bracelets on my bumbag. I offered her a couple, and she happily took two – though I wasn’t sure if she knew about the Taylor Swift connection. Still, it was a sweet moment and exactly why I carry them – to share the joy of Swiftie-hood!
By 2.45 PM, I was settled and ready to explore, with just over four hours until sunset. My time in Khiva was short, as I had planned an early departure for Nukus the next morning. Luckily, my hostel was close to the walled city, where all the main sights are. Entering through the North Gate, I had read that a ticket was required, but when I asked the guard, he simply waved me in.
Almost immediately, I spotted a staircase leading up the walls – of course, I had to climb it. When I couldn’t get far, I backtracked and found another staircase marked “entrance to the wall.” The door was open, and with no ticket booth in sight, I took my chance. It was the perfect way to begin my afternoon, taking in Khiva from above before diving into the streets.
I followed the walls as far as the East Gate before hitting a dead end. Backtracking to the North Gate, I headed west, where the wall ended at the West Gate. This turned out to be the best vantage point of the mosques and madrasahs – definitely worth the walk!
After returning to the North Gate, I headed towards the centre of the walled city. But when I climbed down from the wall, I suddenly found myself locked out. Confused, I called out to some passing women, who asked another lady to let me out. She had a key and came to my rescue – no idea what happened there, but maybe the wall did require a ticket after all… oops!
Curious, I went to the ticket office to check prices, but the system was baffling. There were general tickets and individual site tickets, many of which were expensive compared to Samarkand and Bukhara. Feeling a bit of sightseeing fatigue, I decided to only buy a ticket for the Ark Watchtower, which offered a great city view. At 100,000 sum (~ 53 DKK), it was pricey enough. I didn’t love how Khiva’s ticketing felt more like an amusement park than a preserved old town, but at least I had managed to sneak onto the wall for free.
It was time to hit the streets of Khiva. My first stop was Tash Khauli Palace, which I couldn’t enter without another ticket, but it was still fascinating from the outside. Built between 1830 and 1841 for Khiva’s ruler, Allah Kuli Bahadur Khan, the palace has over 260 rooms arranged around three courtyards. Even from the exterior, its grandeur was evident.
Next, I visited Islamkhodja Madrasah and its adjacent minaret. The madrasah, built between 1908 and 1910, originally housed 42 rooms and educated 50 students. Islamkhodja, a key figure of his time, dedicated his life to Khiva’s development, spearheading the construction of a hospital, post office, telegraph, and various infrastructure projects.
No one was checking tickets, so I went into both – one of the perks of visiting in March, during the tourist low season. Neither really felt worth the cost, especially with the minaret alone priced at 100,000 sum (~ 53 DKK). Still, the city view from the top was impressive, though the climb was brutal as the steps are extremely high (especially for a short person like myself!).
Next, I visited Pakhlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, originally built in 1664 as a domed shrine over the grave of Pakhlavan Mahmoud. A 13th-century poet, wrestler, and healer, he was revered for his strength and wisdom. I was told I needed yet another extra ticket to enter the site. I managed a quick glimpse inside, though the exterior was more impressive.
From there, I headed to Juma Mosque, one of Itchan Kala’s most iconic monuments. First documented in the 10th century and rebuilt in 1788, it stands along the main road between the west and east gates. Unlike other sites, I could actually see and photograph the interior without a ticket. However, as soon as I stepped inside, a woman approached and asked for my ticket. After a quick glance, she let me in! I’m so glad she did because this mosque is truly unique, with its beautifully carved wooden pillars supporting the structure.
Drawn by the sound of music and cheering, I followed the noise to a square in front of the Madrasah of Shergazi Khan, where a local band in traditional dress was performing Uzbek music. Such a treat! I arrived just in time, as they packed up after two more songs.
The madrasah, constructed by slaves between 1719 and 1726 by order of Uzbek ruler Shergazi Khan, is one of the oldest buildings in Itchan Kala. Shergazi Khan’s body was later buried in a small chamber within the structure. As expected, it required a ticket, but I was happy just admiring its stunning exterior for free.
Next, I visited the Kalta Minor Minaret, one of Khiva’s most iconic landmarks. It was commissioned by Muhammad Amin Bahadur Khan, who aimed to build the tallest minaret in the Muslim world – one that would surpass even India’s 73-metre Qutb Minar.
The original plan envisioned a towering structure of 70–80 metres, and some sources even claim it was meant to reach 110 metres. However, construction, which began in 1852, abruptly halted in 1855 when Muhammad Amin Khan died in battle. The minaret was left unfinished at just 29 metres, but its striking turquoise-tiled exterior still makes it a standout feature of Khiva’s skyline.
Right next to it stands Muhammad Aminkhan Madrasah, built between 1852 and 1855 by order of Uzbek ruler Muhammad Aminkhan. It is the largest and most elaborately tiled madrasah in Khiva, though today it houses a hotel, so I didn’t even attempt to go inside.
On the other side of the minaret stands Konya Ark, a 17th-century citadel located on the western edge of Itchan Kala. Originally built by Muhammad Erenke Khan, who ruled from 1687 to 1688, as an administrative centre, it was later expanded to include a mosque, the Khan’s residence, a supreme court, a reception hall, a mint, an arsenal, a harem, and stables – essentially a city within a city.
I tried my luck again by showing my ticket, but the attendant simply pointed me towards the watchtower, which is the original part of the Ark. With no other sights on my list, I headed straight there.
It turned out to be the perfect place to end my day. The weather was gorgeous, and for a while, I had the entire watchtower to myself. I found a sunny spot overlooking Khiva’s stunning skyline of minarets, mosques, and madrasahs, snacking on pistachios I’d brought from Bukhara. Of all the views I’d seen in Khiva, this was undoubtedly the best. The peaceful solitude made the ticket price feel completely worth it after so much walking over the past few days.
As golden hour approached, more tourists arrived, eager to capture Khiva’s beauty bathed in the perfect light.
At 6.30 PM, I made my way down and set out to find a restaurant with a great view for sunset. Right outside the watchtower, I stumbled upon the most perfectly located spot in Khiva – Restaurant Terrassa, a charming, family-run place with an unbeatable view.
The decor was beautifully traditional, and soft piano music played in the background, creating such a cozy atmosphere that I almost teared up. The menu was a delight, with plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, all clearly listed in English. I ordered fried tortilla with pumpkin and a Coke Zero – simple but delicious. The best part? It only cost me 78,000 sum (~ 42 DKK)!
And just like that, my brief time in Khiva came to an end. Given the steep prices, I doubt I would have seen much more even if I had stayed longer, so I’m quite pleased with what I managed to experience in just four daylight hours.
Would I recommend Khiva to other travellers? Yes – but only for a day unless you have plenty of extra time. I can’t say whether the museums or the few places I skipped are worth the high ticket prices, but from my experience, simply wandering around and exploring ticket-free spots offers a more rewarding visit. The only attraction I’d suggest paying for is the watchtower to get a view of the city at golden hour and sunset.
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