The third stop on my journey through Uzbekistan was Bukhara, a city steeped in history. Inhabited for over five millennia, with the city itself existing for half that time, Bukhara flourished along the Silk Road as a centre of trade, scholarship and religion. Today, Bukhara is regarded as the holiest city in Central Asia. The city’s historic centre, rich with beautifully decorated mosques and madrasahs, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I arrived in Bukhara by train from Samarkand on a sunny afternoon, and for the first time since arriving in Uzbekistan, I had a smooth transition to my accommodation. A driver was already waiting for me at the station, making the journey effortless. The ride cost me 60,000 sum (~ 32 DKK) – not bad, considering the train station is in a different town, about 15 kilometers from Bukhara’s centre.
After settling into my hotel and enjoying the luxury of having my own room, I ventured out just as golden hour bathed the city in warm light. My first stop was Lyabi Hauz Pool, a tranquil spot surrounded by vibrant mosques and madrasahs, their intricate facades adding to the charm of the scene.
As I wandered through the city, I couldn’t help but feel a tinge of disappointment. Much of the historic centre was under restoration – a necessary and ultimately beneficial effort, but one that brought noise and disruption to the otherwise serene streets of this small city of just over 280,000 residents.
As I wandered through the Toki Telpakfurushon bazaar in the early evening, I caught the vendors packing up their stalls. To my surprise, no one called out to me or tried to lure me into buying something – a stark contrast to the bustling markets of Samarkand and especially Tashkent.
The Toqi Telpakfurushon is one of Bukhara’s historic bazaars, forming part of the city’s old trading network. Built in 1571 during the reign of the Shaibani ruler Abdullah Khan II, this architectural gem remains a vital piece of the city’s cultural heritage and is officially recognized on the national list of real estate objects of material and cultural significance.
Adjacent to the bazaar is the Bozori Kord Bathhouse, one of the oldest operational hammams in the world, dating back to the 14th century.
I made my way to Abdul Aziz Khan Madrasah and Ulugbek Madrasah, which stand side by side in the heart of Bukhara. The former, built in the mid-17th century, is a stunning example of later Islamic architecture, while the latter, constructed in 1417 during the Timurid dynasty, holds the distinction of being the oldest preserved madrasah in Central Asia. A masterpiece of its time, Ulugbek Madrasah set the standard for similar institutions across the region.
Bathed in the golden hues of the evening, the madrasahs looked even more magnificent. Though I didn’t go inside, I lingered for a while, completely enchanted – not just by the architecture, but by two tiny kittens who eagerly approached me, craving attention. It was one of those small, unexpected moments that made the visit even more special.
Next, I made my way to the true showstopper of Bukhara: the Kalyan Mosque, with its stunning turquoise domes and intricate tilework. Originally built in the 12th century during the reign of Arslan Khan, a ruler of the Karakhanid dynasty, the mosque was later reconstructed and completed in 1514 under Shaibani Ubaidullah Khan. Though scaffolding covered part of the base, the golden evening light and the moon hanging perfectly above more than made up for it.
Standing on the same square is Minaret Kalyan, arguably Bukhara’s most iconic landmark. The minaret was built in 1127 on the foundations of an earlier collapsed structure, also called “Kalyan,” meaning welfare – a name that hints at the site’s pre-Islamic Buddhist or Zoroastrian past. Towering over the city, the minaret has served as a call to prayer for centuries.
Also on the square is the Miri-Arab Madrasah, an architectural jewel dating back to the 16th century. Its construction is linked to Sheikh Abdallah Yamani, a spiritual guide of the Sheybanids. Though the exact date of its founding remains uncertain, Miri-Arab holds a unique place in history as the only religious educational institution in the USSR that resumed operations after World War II. Many of the era’s leading imams trained here, and to this day, it remains an active institution for future Islamic scholars.
As I wandered around looking for a restaurant, I spotted a guy taking photos from a hotel terrace. I couldn’t resist – I knew the view had to be spectacular. So, without hesitation, I snuck in. The hotel was perfectly positioned to the left of Kalyan Mosque, giving me a breathtaking, uninterrupted view of the entire old centre as the sun dipped below the horizon.
Eventually, I found a restaurant called Chashmai Mirob on the opposite side of the square, boasting a terrace with a stunning panorama. Strangely, I was the only customer, which baffled me because the food was fantastic. I had crispy veggie samosas for just 45,000 sum (~ 24 DKK), and as I ate, I watched the final moments of sunset over Bukhara. It was the perfect way to end my first day in the city.
That night, as I settled into bed, I felt completely content with my decision to stay two nights. With an entire extra day ahead of me, I couldn’t wait to see what else Bukhara had in store.
The following morning, I slept in and spent a few hours working on my new business until early afternoon. By the time I stepped outside, the sun was high, and at 20°C, it was the warmest day of my trip so far.
My first stop was Chor Minor, located east of the old town. This unique structure, built in 1807 by Khalif Niyaz-kul, a wealthy Bukharan of Turkmen origin, once served as the gatehouse for a now-destroyed madrasah. Though often mistaken for an entrance, Chor Minor was actually a multi-functional complex with both ritual and shelter purposes. Unlike anything else in Bukhara’s architectural landscape, its four distinct towers make it one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks – though the motives behind its unusual design remain a mystery.
Hoping to find a quiet spot to relax, I grabbed some fresh fruit and snacks from a nearby convenience store. My plan was to enjoy them by Chor Minor, but like much of Bukhara, the area around the site was under construction. Instead of the peaceful atmosphere I had envisioned, I found myself surrounded by noise and scaffolding. Despite the disruption, I took my time admiring the exterior of the structure. I was able to walk right up to it and explore the details, though unfortunately, I couldn’t go inside.
Instead, I wandered back toward the city centre, hoping to find a shady bench where I could sit and unwind. After some searching, I finally found the perfect place – a shaded spot at Abdul Aziz Khan Madrasah, with a beautiful view of Ulugbek Madrasah. Not bad at all!
Feeling curious, I decided to pay the 15,000 sum (~ 8 DKK) entry fee to explore the interior of Abdul Aziz Khan Madrasah. While the exterior is impressive, the tile mosaics inside are in poor condition, making the visit underwhelming.
In search of something more rewarding, I walked over to Kalyan Mosque and paid the same 15,000 sum fee to enter. This time, it was absolutely worth it – the vast open courtyard and elegant Islamic architecture made for a much more awe-inspiring experience.
After leaving Kalyan Mosque, I made my way to the central market to pick up some fresh food. Along the way, I passed by the Ark of Bukhara, an imposing fortress that dates back to the 5th century AD. More than just a military stronghold, the Ark functioned as a royal residence, housing the ruling courts that governed the region. It remained in use as a fortress until it fell to Russian forces in 1920. Today, the Ark is a tourist attraction with museums detailing its long history.
I decided to hold off on entering for now – I knew the view from the top at sunset would be spectacular, so I wanted to wait for the perfect moment. At the market, I bought a beautifully crafted flatbread, fresh strawberries, and pistachios, perfect for a tasty and scenic dinner at the Ark.
Before heading back to the Ark, I made a stop at the Bolo Haouz Mosque, one of the most unique mosques I’ve ever seen. Entry was free, but I needed to wear a headscarf and remove my shoes before stepping inside. Built in 1712, the mosque is located directly across from the Ark. One of its most striking features is the series of painted wooden columns added in 1917, which support the ornate roof of the summer prayer hall.
Just next to the mosque stands the Shukhov Water Tower, known for its panoramic views of the city. While I considered climbing it, I knew that the best views would be from the Ark, which was right in front of me!
Entry to the Ark of Bukhara cost me 60,000 sum (~ 32 DKK), and it was worth every bit. I ended up spending over two hours exploring the fortress. First, I found a quiet bench to sit and enjoy my market snacks. Then, I wandered through the ancient ruins, taking my time to examine scattered pottery sherds and soak in the centuries of history embedded in the walls.
Of course, I couldn’t resist capturing the breathtaking panoramic views. I took hundreds of photos, especially of the gorgeous old town, with its maze of rooftops, domes, and minarets. As the sun dipped below the skyline, the sky exploded into shades of purple and pink, making for an absolutely magical sunset.
I lingered a little longer, waiting for the city lights to flicker on, and snapped a few more shots of the illuminated old town. With my heart full and my camera roll overflowing, I finally made my way back to my hotel, feeling completely satisfied with everything I had seen and experienced in Bukhara.
Bukhara is often compared to Samarkand since both cities boast similar historical sites, but I have to say – Samarkand is the more spectacular of the two. That being said, I’m still glad I visited Bukhara – it has a unique charm and definitely beats Tashkent any day.
However, the constant construction throughout the city dampened the experience a little. The scaffolding, noise, and blocked-off areas made it harder to fully enjoy the atmosphere I was hoping for. Still, for the stunning sights of the old town, Bukhara is absolutely worth a visit.
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