Getting to the city centre of Tashkent, Uzbekistan’s capital, was more of an adventure than I’d anticipated. After a full day of travel, I arrived on a morning flight, determined to avoid taxis as I just don’t feel comfortable getting into a car alone with a random man. So, the bus it was.
Despite my prior research, chaos still found me. After spending way too long locating the bus stop, I finally hopped on the first Bus 11 I saw, assuming it would take me to the main bus station. Instead, I ended up at the back of the airport, where the driver, clearly frustrated, pointed at the door and shouted for me to get out. Oh well. Luckily, another Bus 11 was waiting nearby. I asked if he was heading to the centre, and I think he understood. About 30 bumpy minutes – and a full loop back to the airport – later, I finally made it to the city centre. What a way to kick off my journey!
This month, I’m spending 19 days traveling through Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, to burn off some travel steam before settling on the small island of Tunø in April. Since Tashkent is the capital of Uzbekistan, it made sense to start my journey there. But with far more exciting Uzbek cities ahead, I’d only set aside a single day to explore the city – on the same day as my arrival. Unfortunately, Tashkent’s main sights are spread across a large area, so I had to be strategic with my time.
After finally reaching the city centre, I decided to walk the six kilometres to my hostel near the train station, hitting a few sights along the way. The first stretch of my walk took me down Islam Karimov Street, lined with skyscrapers and other soulless modern buildings. At one point, I didn’t see a curb, tripped and fell – bruising both knees in the process. It was also raining, so I abandoned my walking plan and headed for the metro instead. After struggling to withdraw cash at the airport, I was relieved to find that I could pay by card – and it cost just 1700 sum per ride (~1 DKK)! With such an affordable and well-connected system, it would have been silly not to use it to get around.
Another bonus? The metro stations themselves. Many are beautifully designed, almost like underground art galleries. I was especially impressed by Toshkent, Cosmonauts, and Pakhtakor stations, each with its own unique decorative style.
Finding my hostel turned out to be trickier than expected – even though it’s literally inside the train station. The building itself was easy to locate, but once inside (after passing through security, which honestly, every country should implement), there were no signs for the hostel. Fortunately, the manager had already messaged me on WhatsApp, and when I reached out for help, he quickly responded and came to guide me. A simple sign would make a world of difference, but I can’t really complain – it’s rare to find a hostel this nice and spotless! Not a single crumb in sight. What’s better, I had the entire dorm room to myself!
After stashing my bags in the massive locker assigned to my bed, I set off to explore the city. My first stop: Chorsu. I took the metro, figuring it was the most central stop, and as soon as I stepped out of the station, I found myself at Chorsu Bazaar – pure chaos, but in the best way possible.
Markets in Central Asia are always a delight, offering just about anything you can imagine – fresh fruits and vegetables, meats and cheeses, traditional clothing and shoes, ornaments, household essentials, etc. They are living remnants of the Silk Road era when bazaars sprang up at key trade intersections, becoming the heart of a city where people gathered not just to buy and sell but also to exchange news from the road.
Chorsu Bazaar stands out with its striking blue-domed building at its center, making it one of the most distinctive markets in the region.
From the bazaar, I walked to Kukeldash Madrasah, a historic landmark that was built in 1570 under the Shaybanid Dynasty. Originally a religious school, it later served as a caravanserai, a refuge for the Kokand Khans, and even a site for public executions. Neglect, earthquakes, and misuse left it in disrepair until restoration efforts in the 20th century. Under Soviet rule, it housed an atheism museum, later becoming the Museum of National Instruments. Only after Uzbekistan’s independence did full-scale restoration efforts revive this historic site. Entry cost 15,000 sum (~8 DKK) in cash, but luckily, I found a working ATM nearby. Suddenly, I had the whole country at my fingertips!
Inside the madrasah, there were a few small shops, and I stumbled upon a stunning pair of gold and turquoise earrings – an absolute steal at just 50,000 sum (~27 DKK). The madrasah itself was beautiful, though I knew even grander sights awaited me in the coming cities.
Afterwards, I returned to the market and picked up the most beautiful loaf of bread for 15,000 sum (~8 DKK). I absolutely love Central Asian bread culture!
From there, I decided to walk to Khast Imam square, just a few kilometers away. However, it felt much longer due to Tashkent’s chaotic traffic. Thankfully, the city centre has relatively walkable pavements, but crossing the street is another story – cars start moving the second the pedestrian light turns red, even if you’re still in the middle of the pedestrian crossing. You really have to stay alert!
On the way, I wandered into Khastimam Mahalla, a charming neighborhood of narrow, winding streets and mud-brick houses with intricate details, reminiscent of Yazd in Iran. I passed the breathtaking Center for Islamic Civilization, a grand structure resembling a mosque. At Khast Imam, I removed my shoes, donned a headscarf, and entered through the women-only entrance to the mosque before going to explore the rest of the square.
Khast Imam square is Tashkent’s spiritual centre and one of its most popular spots – and it’s free to visit. The complex features historic landmarks like the tomb of Hazrati Imam, Barak-Khan Madrasah, Tilla Sheikh Mosque, and the mausoleum of Saint Abu Bakr Kaffal Shashi. It also houses the Islamic Institute of Imam al-Bukhari and the Spiritual Administration of Central Asian Muslims. Furthermore, Khast Imam is home to a rich library of manuscripts, including the world-famous Quran of Caliph Uthman, one of the oldest known copies of the Quran, dating back to the 8th century.
I walked to the nearest metro station and caught a ride as close to Independence Square as I could get. At this point, my feet were killing me and I was feeling incredibly tired, but I pushed on, wanting to take in as much of the city as possible.
Along the way, I strolled down the mighty Sharaf Rashidov Street, home to Uzbekistan’s key administrative buildings, including the Residence of the President. This boulevard leads to Independence Square, the country’s perhaps most significant public space, symbolizing Uzbekistan’s freedom from Soviet rule.
From there, I walked to Amir Timur Square in search of a metro stop, passing the impressive statue of Amir Timur, a legendary 14th-century conqueror and national hero, mounted on horseback.
There was one more place I wanted to visit – the Minor Mosque – but I decided to skip it as exhaustion was kicking in. Even though I used the metro frequently, the stops are far apart, meaning I still ended up walking a lot on very little sleep. Since the mosque is newly built and not historically significant, I didn’t feel too bad about missing it – though architecturally, it’s a masterpiece. But sometimes, you just have to listen to your body and accept that you can’t see everything.
Tashkent was an interesting choice for my first stop in Uzbekistan. I always knew the cities ahead would be more rewarding, but I make it a point to visit a country’s capital, even if it doesn’t match other cities in beauty or historical significance. In many ways, Tashkent felt familiar – the chaos and wild traffic reminded me of Tehran, while the grandeur of Sharaf Rashidov Street took me right back to Dushanbe. I’m glad I took the time to explore, but I’m just as glad I trusted my instinct and only planned one day in the city – honestly, I wouldn’t have known what to do with a second!
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