Last Friday marked the end of my journey as an archaeologist – a bittersweet but necessary step towards building the life I dream of on Tunø.
When I first started studying archaeology in 2016, I had no clear direction for my future. I only knew I wanted to attend university, and archaeology was the one subject interesting enough to commit four years to. I never actually imagined working in the field; in fact, I was convinced that once I finished my degree, I’d return to full-time travel, just as I had done during my gap years.
But then Covid hit between my Bachelor’s and Master’s. My planned job as a travel guide in Nuuk, Greenland, was cancelled, along with all my other travel plans. Suddenly, I had to figure out how to spend lockdown. I took a short-term job at a supermarket and travelled around Denmark whenever possible, and in the summer ventured to the few neighbouring countries that had reopened their borders.
That autumn, I sent an email to someone who would later become a dear colleague at Museum Lolland-Falster. That email set off nearly two years of archaeological fieldwork on various fascinating sites. It was an incredible experience, and to my surprise, I found myself enjoying the 8-to-4 routine. Somewhere along the way, I even convinced myself that archaeology could be the right career for me.
In 2023, I spent a year in Scotland pursuing my Master’s in Archaeology of the North. My plan was to continue with a PhD, researching abandoned settlements in the Faroe Islands – my main archaeological interest and the focus of my dissertation.
But then, in February, I returned to Denmark on a whim and started working as a field archaeologist in Thy. At first, I was happy to be back in the field, and I especially enjoyed the cemetery excavation in Thisted. But by autumn, I began feeling drained, counting down to the weekends. While looking forward to the weekend might seem normal to some, it’s something I’ve always feared – the creeping sense of routine becoming suffocating. That’s when I realized that, as much as I love archaeology, a long and demanding career in the field isn’t right for me. I don’t thrive under deadlines and stress. The idea of doing a PhD felt more like something I should do rather than something I truly wanted to do. So, I took time to reflect and decided I needed to try something completely different. I don’t want to live for the weekends – I want to look forward to every single day. And that’s the feeling I hope to find in my new life on Tunø.
That said, I’m a deeply nostalgic person, and I know I’ll often look back and miss my time in archaeology. This field has given me some of the greatest experiences of my life. I spent two years studying in Copenhagen while working part-time at archaeological museums. I excavated a Neolithic ritual site on the island of Bornholm, worked on a project at a pre-Incan pyramid in Peru, and spent a summer digging through a Bronze Age midden in the middle of the Russian forest steppe. I moved to Greenland for two incredible semesters, volunteered at the National Museum and did an internship at Ammassalik Museum. In November 2020, I landed my first “real” archaeology job at Museum Lolland-Falster, and spent my holidays working on geophysical surveys at Neolithic sites in Serbia and excavating a Neolithic mass grave in Slovakia. My year in Scotland was all about deepening my knowledge of archaeology in northern regions. During the summer between semesters, I spent a month in the Faroe Islands conducting research and fieldwork for my dissertation, followed by another month excavating an incredibly well-preserved Yupik site in a remote part of Alaska. My (relatively short) career in archaeology has truly been an adventure!
Despite stepping away from the field, I have no regrets about my education. It has given me invaluable knowledge and unforgettable experiences. And in some ways, archaeology will always be part of my life. There’s a local museum on the island where I plan to volunteer, and “my” Faroese settlements are still there – waiting for me to write up articles based on my dissertation work, and perhaps even revisit for further study in the future. A perfect winter project for the slower months on Tunø!
The latest – and so far last – stop on my archaeological journey was Museum Thy in Thisted, in northwest Jutland. For the past 13 months, I worked on various excavations, from medieval houses to a Neolithic causewayed ritual site. Most recently, I spent nine months excavating a cemetery with skeletons dating from the medieval period all the way up to the late 19th century.
While the archaeology was fascinating, what I’ll remember most fondly about Thisted is how it led Minnie and me to Bente and her furry companions, Bella and Mille. While I was at work, Minnie spent her days at Bente’s, and I truly believe she blossomed because of the love and care she received there. Thisted wasn’t just another dig site – it was a place that gave us both something special.
Of course, no move of mine is complete without exploring as much as possible. One of the best parts of living in Thisted was being so close to Thy National Park – Denmark’s oldest national park – where windswept North Sea beaches, towering sand dunes, and vast, rugged forests stretch endlessly. On the other side of Thisted lies the Limfjord, home to several beautiful islands. Minnie and I made the most of it, spending every weekend we could exploring the park and the neighboring islands in depth.
During our year in Thisted, we….
- Hiked from Tved to Hanstholm through Tved Plantage
- Went on a roadtrip to Dybdalsgave and Vorupør
- Explored the cliffs of Vilsund and walked over the bridge to the island of Mors
- Went for a hike to Lyngby Battery and explored the small fishing community of Stenbjerg Landingsplads
- Explored Kirsten Kjær Museet, an art museum in the middle of a forest
- Paid several visits to Thylejren, a self-contained micro-nation
- Visited the Bunker Museum in Hanstholm
- Hiked up to the viewpoint at Isbjerg in Hanstholm Vildtreservat
- Explored the island of Fur with Bente and Bella
- Visited Klitmøller, the surfing capital of northern Europe
- Visited the Iron Age gathering at Heltborg Museum
- Explored Agger Tange, a narrow peninsula located between the Limfjord and the North Sea
- Hiked from Lild Strand to the Bulbjerg cliff
- Went on a field trip to Lundehøj Passage Grave, the ancient burial mounds at Ydby Hede and Vestervig Church
- Went thrift shopping in Thisted, Hurup, Fjerritslev and Nykøbing Mors
- Hiked from Klim to Thorup Strand
- Hiked from Agger to Lodbjerg Lighthouse
- Hiked from Thisted to Eshøj twice
- Went on a round-trip hike in Bøgsted Rende during Thy Walk ‘n Run
- Explored the islands of Jegindø, Venø and Agerø
- Roadtripped around Mors and explored Højriis Castle, Sillerslev Harbour, Ejerslev Harbour, and Feggeklit
- Roadtripped to see Vejlerne and Vigsø
- Roadtripped to Elstedhaven, Hanklit on Mors, Skyum Bjerge, Ashøjene and Tvorup Church Ruin
Blog posts from all of these adventures are in the works!
Now that I’ve decided to move again – this time with the added weight of changing my career path – I sincerely hope it’s the last move for Minnie and me, at least for many years to come. I have a good feeling about Tunø, a real desire to put down roots there – something I’ve never truly felt before, despite how much I’ve loved the places I’ve lived. It’s time to stop being a bolter.
Buuuuuut first – one last adventure! Right now, I’m in Uzbekistan, exploring this stunning country along with Kazakhstan until March 25th. It feels good to burn off a little travel energy before settling down on a tiny island!
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