After an unforgettable two-week journey through the gorgeous country of Georgia in the autumn of 2021, I finally arrived in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia. My original plan had been to split my time evenly between the two countries, but I fell so deeply in love with Georgia that I stayed until the very last possible moment. With a flight departing from Yerevan, I eventually had no choice but to catch a bus there. Still, I made sure to carve out a little time to explore the city, promising myself that I would one day return to truly do Armenia justice.
Stepping off the bus in Yerevan, I was immediately struck by the heat – much warmer than what I had experienced in Georgia. It was already 3 PM, leaving me with just four hours of daylight to take in as much of the city as possible. With no time to waste, I set off, luggage in tow. Sure, it was a hassle, but getting a taste of the city made it all worthwhile!
During the bus ride, I had researched Yerevan and put together a list of must-see spots. First on my itinerary was the Blue Mosque, the only active mosque in Armenia. Built in the 18th century, it stands as one of the oldest structures in central Yerevan. Secularized in the 1920s, it housed the History Museum of Yerevan for over five decades. However, after Armenia gained independence, the mosque was carefully restored and once again opened for worship, serving the Muslim community in the country.
I then made my way to Kond, where locals greeted me with warm hellos as I wandered through its maze-like streets. As Yerevan’s oldest district, Kond is a true urban labyrinth, where centuries of history intertwine. The tightly packed houses – some abandoned, others still lived in – create a striking contrast to the city’s modern architecture. Perched on a hill near the center, its narrow alleys, crumbling facades, and lingering sense of timelessness make it feel like a living museum.
The neighbourhood was established in the 17th century, and it has remained largely underdeveloped, with many of its buildings in various states of disrepair. Walking through Kond, you’ll see old brick homes with tin roofs, laundry strung between balconies, children playing in the streets, and small shrines or crosses embedded in the walls. The neighborhood is also home to a few historical landmarks, such as the 17th-century Kond Mosque, though much of its original structure has been lost.
I made my way back down to the city centre, passing high-rise apartment buildings so tightly packed and timeworn that they looked as if they could collapse at any moment. I wandered through a garish amusement park, where the air was filled with laughter and joy.
Next, I arrived at the Vernissage, Yerevan’s sprawling open-air market. It had everything imaginable – handmade crafts, artwork, jewellery, antiques, etc. – but with only little cash left, I stuck to my tradition and bought a magnet, just like I do in every country I visit.
From the market, I soon found myself at the Republic Square, where I took a moment to soak in the grandeur of its surroundings. I spent some time admiring the magnificent building that houses several museums, including the National Gallery and the Museum of the History of Armenia. However, with limited time, I had to settle for appreciating its beauty from the outside.
I walked up Northern Avenue, Yerevan’s main shopping street, and made my way to the Cascade, where I hoped to watch the sunset over the city with the majestic backdrop of Mount Ararat. The view was breathtaking – Ararat’s silhouette shrouded in mist, creating a dreamy, almost otherworldly scene. In the far distance, flashes of lightning illuminated the mountain, adding to the magic of the moment.
I stayed until nightfall, taking in the last traces of daylight before heading back down in search of food. I had been recommended a restaurant, but it was completely full, so I settled for a nearby café instead. I ordered a plate of rice with roasted vegetables – exactly what I needed after two weeks of indulging in Georgia’s rich, heavy cuisine!
As I sat in the café, I reflected on my brief but afternoon in Yerevan. Though I had only scratched the surface of what Armenia has to offer, the city left a lasting impression. I know this won’t be my last visit.
One day, I will return, with more time to truly explore and immerse myself in everything this incredible country has to offer. But for now, I carry its essence with me, a fleeting yet unforgettable taste of Armenia.
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