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Denmark Outdoor travel

Kappel Stubmølle, Lolland: A winter cycling trip to one of the oldest mills in Denmark

On a beautiful frosty day in December 2022, I went on my very last adventure on the Danish island of Lolland before moving and relocating to Aberdeen. There was one last place I wanted to see before leaving; Kappel Stubmølle, the oldest mill on Lolland and one of the oldest in Denmark as a whole.

Although I mostly just wanted to sleep after my work’s Christmas party the night before, I knew I’d have to go on this adventure the following day as it was my last chance. I slept in as much as possible and left myself just enough time to get to the mill before sunset while also allowing myself enough time to swing by the forests of the Vejlø peninsula.

I started my bike ride in Nakskov, the largest town on Lolland, and cycled out to said peninsula where I was rewarded with lovely views over the island-dotted Nakskov Fjord. I met a lone horse roaming through Lille Vejlø Forest and later spotted his friends on the meadow that separates the two forests on the peninsula.

I lingered for a while by the shore, enjoying some snacks in the peaceful environment that I had all to myself. To me, that is the best thing about Lolland – if you venture beyond the towns, you’ll most likely be all alone, surrounded by nothing but nature and vast fields.

I continued to Kappel in a hurry as the sun was getting ready to set. Several kilometres of countryside roads followed, and the only sight beyond fields was the little whitewashed church of Kappel, built in 1464. Just around the corner from the church, I finally caught sight of the old mill.

Kappel Stubmølle is a protected mill, built around 1730 on the very spot where it still stands, in the countryside of southwestern Lolland. It’s a so-called post mill, which is the earliest type of windmill in Europe, where the whole body of the mill is mounted on a central post, which is then supported by four quarter bars. There are only 16 mills of this type left in Denmark, and Kappel Stubmølle is believed to be among the oldest surviving post mills in the country. It is also one of only two surviving thatched post mills in Denmark, and the only red-painted post mill in the country!

The mill was taken out of use in 1934. However, in 2004, it was restored and is now able to grind flour again, though it is only used on special days for tourism purposes.

With dusk setting in, I hurried the long way back to Nakskov and made it just as it got dark.

I ended up biking 28 kilometres on that frosty afternoon, and it felt like the perfect way to end two years of adventures on and around Lolland, an island I will always keep close to my heart and continue to visit for many many years to come!

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