Highlights of southeast Lolland: Frejlev Forest, Fuglsang and Nysted

Back in early May when I was still living on Lolland, my besties Solveig and Mikkel came to visit me and the dogs (Kanzi, Modig and Chico) at the farm for a weekend. I always love spending my time with them, and this weekend was no exception.

We spent the Saturday hanging out at the farm and taking the dogs for a swim at the beach in Rødbyhavn (or just Kanzi actually as the others are too scared of water!). But on the Sunday, we were keen to get out and about on Lolland. Since I’d spent most of my weekends on Lolland exploring but still hadn’t made it to Solveig’s and Mikkel’s favourite place on the island, they decided to take me there. We brought Modig and Kanzi along for a day of adventure, while little Chico travelled with my host family to Copenhagen for the day.

We were headed to Frejlev Skov, a gorgeous forest situated right down to the ocean in the southeastern part of the island. And what’s more, the forest is jam-packed with ancient burial structures. In fact, there’s over one hundred of them! So there is plenty to explore amongst the many Bronze Age burial mounds, Neolithic dolmens and passage graves, and rocks with petroglyphs from the Bronze Age or early Neolithic. Especially the mighty long barrow, Kong Grøns Høj, is an impressive sight.

We enjoyed a long, slow stroll through the forest, letting the dogs lead the pace as we kept an eye out for the prehistoric wonders. We followed a trail that stretched down to the ocean with a wonderful view of grazing horses and a backdrop of the neighbouring island of Falster.

After our forest stroll, we continued to another place I hadn’t seen before; Fuglsang, a gorgeous historicist manor with the most enchanting fairytale-like surroundings. The manor was built in 1868-69 near the site of a large farm that was first mentioned in 1368.

The manor grounds are home to a cultural centre including an art museum and a restaurant. The main building also serves as a venue for classical concerts. But the best part of Fuglsang is the garden which was laid out in the late 18th century. The enormous garden is full of pavilions, stone dikes and rare trees. Especially the giant thuja tree from 1871 is an enchanting sight. Many of its drooping branches have taken root and started ascending, and cypress trees surround the thuja, creating a very special atmosphere. The secret spot behind the cypress trees is known as “the Cathedral”.

We had a delicious meal at the restaurant, and then set out to explore the garden, and even went beyond as we followed a trail through the surrounding Hestekobbel Forest. We ended up at Skejten, a nature reserve by the ocean which is home to rare flora and a vast array of wildlife.

Our day ended with an ice cream by the marina in Nysted, my favourite town on Lolland. I’d previously visited Nysted when my parents and grandmother came to visit me, and we all really loved the little town.

Nysted is one of the best-kept market towns in Denmark, founded in the 13th century. Just over 1,300 people call the town home. It’s also home to Aalholm, the oldest Medieval castle on Lolland and one of the oldest in Denmark. It was first mentioned in 1329.

From 1286, there was also a Franciscan cloister in town, but it was closed down in 1538 and its bricks used for various building projects, including at Aalholm Castle. During the medieval times, Nysted was a natural crossroad for trade and traffic since it has the only natural harbour on the south coast of Lolland. Despite several historic fires in the town, Nysted has preserved its old urban environment with half-timbered cottages and a beautiful red-brick church from the late 13th or early 14th century.

Seeing Aalholm Castle before his eyes, my dad suddenly recalled visiting Nysted as a child to see the classic car museum that exhibited the private collection of Aalholm’s owner. Unfortunately, the museum closed down in 2008, and the cars were sold on by the new owner, so we couldn’t take a trip down memory lane.

This trip through southeast Lolland was definitely not my last time in the area.

All three places are some I’d visit again in a heartbeat, and when I move back to Lolland next year, I’m planning a hike through the Flintinge Forest which lies just northwest of Fuglsang.