Mingling with the rich and famous in Monaco

Monaco is the second-smallest country in the world after the Vatican, and with a population of over 38,600 in an area of just 2,020 km², it’s the most densely populated sovereign state in the entire world. The microstate borders France on three sides and the Mediterranean on the other side with the world’s shortest coastline.

Although Monaco is the state of luxury, extravagance and gambling, none of which interests me, I decided to pay this microstate a visit during my travels through Southern Europe this summer. It is a country to “tick off” after all! I’d come from another one of Europe’s microstates, San Marino, and headed directly to Nice in France, a city located just 18 km from Monaco. I decided to stay in Nice rather than Monaco as accommodation in Monaco is crazy expensive, and it’s only a short train ride away from Nice.

The Rock of Monaco, the area’s main geological landmark, has been inhabited since Paleolithic times. In historical times, it has been under the rule of the Greeks and later the Romans, until 1191, when the city of Genoa was granted suzerainty over the area. In 1215, the construction of a fortress on top of the Rock of Monaco began, and later a settlement around the base of the rock was built, and residents from Genoa were lured in with land grants and tax exemptions. This marked the beginning of the modern history of Monaco.

In the late 13th century, a civil strife in Genoa between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, forced the Guelphic Grimaldi family to seek refuge in Monaco. Francesco Grimaldi seized the Rock of Monaco in 1297, starting the Grimaldi dynasty. Ever since then, the area has remained under the control of the Grimaldi family. Monaco’s sovereignty was confirmed in 1861 by the Franco-Monegasque Treaty, although 95 % of its former territory was annexed by France. Since then, Monaco’s military defense has been the responsibility of France, but a new treaty of 2002 clarified that Monaco cannot be annexed by France even if there are no heirs to carry on the dynasty; it will remain an independent nation.

Today, Monaco is well-known for being one of the wealthiest countries in the world, which is due to its tax laws (no income tax!) and tourism (especially gamblers). In fact, 30 % of the population are millionaires, and Monaco has become the rich people’s playground.

The entire country of Monaco is made up of several neighborhoods, with the most populous – and popular – being Monte Carlo. This posh neighborhood is well known for its famous casino, Casino de Monte Carlo. The casino opened in 1863 and has since been featured in many films (James Bond, anyone?). Thousands of tourists visit the casino, thinking that they’re gambling alongside Monte Carlo’s rich residents, but they are not. In fact, gambling – actually, even entering a casino – is illegal for citizens of Monaco.

To understand the reason for this, we must go back to 1863. The House of Grimaldi was facing bankruptcy, but Princess Caroline got the brilliant idea of opening a casino in Monaco to help the ailing economy. The princess decided to ban the locals from gambling as she didn’t want them gambling away all their money, leaving the state poor again. The main goal for the new casino was to attract foreign gambling enthusiasts.

As you might have guessed, the casino was a huge success, and continues to be so today. The gambling laws of Monaco haven’t changed much since the 19th century, so the casino industry in Monaco only serves foreigners. To ensure that no Monegasques enter the casinos, there are passport checks for everyone!

I didn’t enter the casino as I wasn’t interested in paying 10 euros in entrance fee to see – well – a tourist scam, so I just snapped a few pictures of the beautiful building and explored the glamourous neighbourhood. Needless to say, I felt very out of place with my hiking boots and camera around my neck!

From the poshest neighborhood to the oldest; it was time to head to Monaco-Ville, the old town with the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, located on the Rock of Monaco. The heat was intense and it took many steps to get up the rock, but I was rewarded with beautiful views of Monte Carlo and the main marina.

The Rock of Monaco was much more me. Here, there was actual sightseeing to be done, and I didn’t feel as out of place as I did in Monte Carlo.

The fortress that was built in on the Rock in the 13th century, is the Prince’s Palace today. It’s the official residence of the Sovereign Prince of Monaco, although it looks more like something out of a fairytale or a children’s book with its pastel colours. The palace square is huge and offers incredible views. I enjoyed an ice lolly in the heat while looking over the beautiful French Riviera.

Afterwards, I walked the most beautiful stretch by the rocky coastline to the Saint Nicholas Cathedral, overlooking another marina. The cathedral was built in 1875-1903 and serves as the main cathedral of Monaco. Several Grimaldi’s are buried here, including actress Grace Kelly and her husband Prince Rainier III. The cathedral is stunning and nothing like what I’d imagined for Monaco!

Unfortunately, it was closed for something important as a bunch of police were standing outside guiding people away from the entrance.

I explored the tiny quaint streets of the old town for a bit before finding a vegan sandwich and a bench in the shade with a view over the ocean. Absolutely perfect.

I found another way down the rock, where I came by an old part of the fortress. It was very enjoyable, especially because I had it all to myself for most of the time! Monaco is tiny and gets many tourists who all flock to the same places (including me hehe), and I was there during peak tourist season, but apparently not everywhere on the Rock is on the tourist radar – lucky for me!

I decided to head back to Nice afterwards as there were still places I wanted to see in Nice before catching my night bus to Barcelona. I’d only spent 4,5 hours in Monaco, but I was happy with what I’d seen. I explored everything that was on my list and even had plenty of time to relax.

With Monaco, I have found my least favourite country in Europe. Capitalism thrives here and to me that was disturbing to watch. It does have some natural beauty though and I loved the views and architecture of the old town, so I do think it’s worth a (short) visit.