Out of Narsarsuaq: An epic hike to the Greenland ice sheet

Back in Narsaq I’d been told that some tourists had recently spotted two polar bears near Narsarsuaq, so my plans of hiking alone to the ice sheet from Narsarsuaq seemed impossible. It annoyed me a lot since that hike was my main reason for going to Narsarsuaq for two days, but I know that the polar bears in the Arctic are hungry, and I really don’t feel like being their next meal. Safety always comes first.

Instead, my plan was to ask around in Narsarsuaq as soon as I arrived to see if someone with a rifle would be willing to take me on a tour. But I had no such luck. I asked at the hotel without luck and then went to the airport to try my luck there. No one was able to take me. I would’ve even paid good money for it, but it was no use. But thankfully a kind local man, Viggo, heard my wish and told me about the polar bear sighting. Apparently, the tourists had recently spotted what they thought were polar bears in the Eriksfjord, but they had no photographic evidence and the “polar bears” had not since been seen (maybe what they saw were the same two sheep that I saw?). First of all, that fjord is located quite far from the hike, and secondly, Viggo assured me that polar bears won’t venture that far inland, as they hunt by the coast. So I could go by myself and be just fine.

But seeing that I was still worried, Viggo kindly offered to drive me as far as possible, to Blomsterdalen (‘The Flower Valley’) which is actually half of the 8 km hike (one way). Not only did he cut out a big chunk of the long hike for me (and the boring road part), he also showed me which way to walk and gave me confidence to do it by myself, since he had to return to his job at the airport. I gave him some Marabou chocolate and a coke as a thanks and then headed on, more confident than when I arrived, but still constantly looking over my shoulder. Because of Viggo, I knew that it was an irrational fear.

Blomsterdalen is a beautiful valley surrounded by high mountains up to 600 meters high that really should be seen during the summer when it’s in full blossom. Viggo showed me pictures of it, and convinced me that I had to come back in summer one year (maybe in 2019?)! Still, even without all the flowers it’s still an incredibly beautiful place.

Most of the hike went through the valley along a well-trodden path, although there were no human footprints, only adorable Arctic hare footprints!

When I got to the end of the hiking trail in the valley, I decided to walk on for a little while to see if I could see the ice sheet from below, but when that proved impossible, I went back to the trail that went steeply upwards.

Next up was a 304 meter ascent, which is so steep in places that ropes have been put there for climbers to hold onto. I spent quite a while doing this part of the trek, as my legs were tired from the constant hiking the past three weeks, but also because I wanted to fully enjoy the incredible views.

Up and up I went, and it seemed like the ascent would never end. I kept thinking I was almost at the top, but as soon as I got above one ridge, there was another one!

But then I saw it, the ice sheet, and all my struggles were forgotten. It was magnificent to finally see it and be so close to it!

I had first-class views of the dead glacier, Narsarsuaq Glacier, and I could even see more of the ice sheet behind the mountains in the backdrop. I swear this is one of the most amazing views I’ve ever seen.

I really wanted to go down to the glacier, but Viggo had told me not to do it without a guide as it’s a dangerous descent and walking on the glacier requires special equipment. Instead, I decided to go down just a little bit to see the glacier from another angle.

It was time to head back to civilization,  but of course not without getting myself lost. If you know me, you know that I ALWAYS get lost. Even in the smallest villages…..  I spent a good 45 minutes on the top trying to find the trail to go down, but I just couldn’t locate it – and everywhere else was too steep to descend.

It wasn’t until I heard the waterfall which I remembered climbing up beside that I finally found the trail, but even after that I failed at following the trail all the way back down. I somehow ended up in an overgrown area, where I had to fight the vegetation to get back on the trail… Oh me.

Eventually I got back down and started the walk through Blomsterdalen, over the river and back to where Viggo had dropped me off that morning. At one point, I saw something in the distance that I could’ve sworn were polar bears. I stopped dead in my tracks, but at the second glance I could see that they were just sheep. Second time in two days that sheep had fooled me into believing they were polar bears!

It had taken me five hours to hike to the glacier viewpoint, which is quite a bit more than it should’ve taken, but I blame the constant looking over my shoulders for polar bears and my tired legs for that!

I hadn’t arranged for Viggo to pick me up again, so I started walking back towards the village, a walk that takes about 1,5 hours. But just as I thought humanity couldn’t get any better, I saw a truck coming towards me. And guess who it was? It was Viggo, who had come looking for me as he was worried about me for taking so long… I jumped in his truck and he drove me to the hotel after showing me a different trail that he suggested I could hike the next day (and of course, I decided to do just that – stay tuned!).

The hike to the glacier had been absolutely incredible. It was so worth it to come to Narsarsuaq, despite having to pay the expensive hotel prices as the hostel was closed for the winter! I was blown away by Narsarsuaq and all the incredible views along the hike – I’m so glad that the polar bear scare was just a scare so I could go to the ice sheet!