At 772 meters above sea level, Ukkusissat Mountain, also known as Store Malene (‘Big Malene’), is the highest of two mountains located in close proximity to Nuuk, the capital of Greenland. Ever since I first looked out of my bedroom window at the mountain, I just knew that I had to climb it. Well, at least I had to give it a try since it looked like there was a lot of ice on the top part of the mountain.
On Monday September 10th, I woke up early and looked out of my window. The weather was amazing and there was no fog on the mountain! Regine was obviously thinking the same thing as me, as she texted me shortly after, asking if I wanted to join for a hike to Ukkusissat. There was no doubt in my mind, despite the fact that I’d planned to study all day – we simply HAD to use a good day like that to climb the mountain!
Charlotte and Ali wanted to join us as well, so the four of us caught a bus to Qinngorput, a nice new neighbourhood located about 6 km from the center of Nuuk. From the first bus stop in Qinngorput, the trail to the mountains starts. At 10.30 AM, we set off for Ukkusissat, hoping we would make it all the way to the top!
The hike up the mountain was steep the entire way, but some parts more than others. It was actually more of a steep climb than a hike. Occasionally, we even had to use our hands to pull ourselves up and sometimes squeeze our bodies through narrow passages. Throughout the hike, we were saying that we didn’t think we would make it all the way up. It was so steep and we were worried about our safety when we would approach the icy spots.
At one point when I looked back, I noticed two guys coming along the trail behind us. The solitude of the four of us alone on the mountain was over, but I didn’t mind at all, especially when I found out that they were Faroese and that they know my Faroese family in Vestmanna! Happy to finally meet some Faroese people on Greenland, I happily showed them my Faroe Islands tattoo and we talked about the beautiful country while climbing higher up the mountain together. But at one point, we told them to walk in front as they were waaaay quicker than us and we were walking so slow in order to not fall…
Up and up we went, and soon we came to the ice. Carefully, we continued the climb, one step at a time and being extremely careful not to slip and fall. We had been told by locals that a few people had died on the mountain in the attempt to climb it. We did not want that to happen to us – we really love and value our lives – so at about 450 meters above sea level, we decided to turn back and go down as it had become too slippery and dangerous. We no longer felt safe, so it was the right decision to turn back.
To my surprise, the way down was actually quite easy as I slid down on my butt most of the way. I didn’t fear for my life then, so for a change walking down was easier and felt safer than walking up. Halfway down, we met a bunch of politicians from Denmark who were in Greenland for a few days and had the day off to explore Nuuk. They were on a guided trip but most of them weren’t wearing appropriate shoes to hike the mountain, so we told them about the conditions and they decided to hike another much easier trail instead. But one of them decided to climb back down and catch the bus with us as he had hurt his ankle. It was quite interesting to meet and talk to a politician!
The entire trip took us about five hours, but that was because we stopped so many times to take rests and lots and lots of photos! It can easily be done in a shorter amount of time, especially if you don’t go for the top.
It’s not often that I give up on anything and I really hate doing it, but sometimes you must listen to your instinct and save yourself from potential injury. Because the thing is, we probably could’ve made it safely up there and back, but when I start doubting my safety, I’m not taking any chances. So it was the right decision to go back, as much as it hurt me to do so. The mountain defeated me.
But I am planning to go back there. I want to go there when it’s covered in snow, but next time with a guide that knows the terrain. I still want to conquer it, but without fearing for my life during the climb.
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