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On our third day in Norðoyggjar, Katrine and I decided to do one of the most difficult hikes on the Faroe Islands – climbing the third highest mountain, Villingadalsfjall at 841 m., and from there onwards to Cape Enniberg at 754 m., which is one of the highest promontories in the entire world. Because of the difficulty of the hike, it’s recommended to hire a guide or go with a local, but because we both have quite a lot of experience with hiking, we decided to go on this adventure alone.
We hitchhiked from our camp site in Klaksvík to Viðareiði, the northernmost village on the Faroe Islands, located on the island of Viðoy. We were picked up by a Polish guy, who had been living in Árnafjørður, a village located in between Klaksvík and Viðareiði, for several years. Because there weren’t many other cars on the road, he decided to drive us the entire 19 km. to Viðareiði, where the hike would begin.
A few minutes after he had dropped us off, a local man came up to us and gave us some advice about the hike. He told us that thick fog would be coming in throughout the entire country in the afternoon, so we were to head back to the village straight away when the fog would enter. We had heard this several times before, and it’s actually one of the main problems with tourists in the Faroe Islands – they don’t know the dangers of the mountains and end up going too close to the edge or climbing the wrong way. Just this year, there has been at least three accidents where tourists have been killed, so it’s no wonder that the locals are being extra protective of us.
Climbing up Villingadalsfjall was not a quick and easy thing to do. There were a lot of loose stones on the trail and no matter how high we got, we just never seemed to be at the summit. When hiking in the Faroe Islands, I’m used to summiting a mountain quickly since most of them aren’t very high, but climbing Villingadalsfjall was a real challenge. This was the toughest hike I had done since Mount Hallasan in Jeju Island back in April.
But I’m not one for giving up – and neither is Katrine. After two hours of hard work and effort, we finally reached the summit of Villingadalsfjall, from where we had the most breathtaking view of the northern tips of the islands of Borðoy, Kunoy and Kalsoy, as well as Cape Enniberg and the two islands to the east of Viðoy; Fugloy and Svínoy. In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful views on the Faroe Islands. I think the islands in the north part of the country are amazing and they’re definitely a candidate for the place that I’ll settle down in someday.
Now it was time to head north to the northernmost point of the Faroe Islands, the magnificent promontory of Cape Enniberg. Getting to Enniberg looked as easy as anything from the mountain, but it proved to be a lot more difficult than we ever thought possible.
We tried walking what we thought was the only correct way, along the ridge of the promontory, but suddenly we got to a point where we couldn’t go any further – at least not if we wanted to get back to Klaksvík with all of our limbs in place. We decided to turn back, but this time we walked closer to the edge, and suddenly I noticed a trail going around the ridge below us. We managed to get down there and were finally on the right track.
We walked along the trail for a while until we came to a large rock, where the only possible way – or so we thought – was to go right. We later found out that we should’ve turned left and jumped over a few gaps in the cliff, which was impossible to know without a guide. It’s no wonder they tell you not to go there on your own!
As we were walking along the cliff, on the opposite side of where we were supposed to be, we soon realized that this wasn’t going to get us anywhere. But I had no idea how to get to the end of Cape Enniberg, and I felt so bad for even considering giving up. But right then a miracle happened. I overheard to local guys speaking above us and shouted to them to ask them how on earth they got there! Laughing, the two local guys, Sámal and Mortan, threw down some rope and hoisted us up. They are true legends!
We were only about 10 metres from the north tip of the promontory, so we walked there with our new friends and took in the amazing views over a well-deserved lunch. From the tip, we could see the rock Seyðtorva, which is the actual northernmost point of the Faroe Islands. Someday, I would love to sail out there and step foot on it!
When it was time to head back down to civilization, we decided to follow Sámal and Mortan in order to not get lost again. With all the loose stones on the trail, it was really tough – possibly even tougher than climbing up. Going down is always hard for the knees, and the knee injury that I had suffered from in Skálatoftir two days earlier, was also giving me problems here, but at least it was going in the right direction. I shouldn’t even have been hiking with the injury, but I simply could not help it – not when I’m on the Faroe Islands.
Getting back to the village was the most rewarding experience yet on our travels together. We had just successfully completed one of the toughest hikes in the Faroe Islands without a guide – although with some greatly appreciated help from our new Faroese friends.
A few hours after we got back from the hike, the fog came creeping in over the Faroe Islands and the entire country was drenched in rain. Our tent gave up in the storm, so we had to stay overnight in the camp site kitchen before we were able to get to Tórshavn where we had borrowed a house the next morning. Our camping adventure was over for now, but our hiking adventures had only just begun. Stay tuned!
PLEASE NOTE! The hike up Villingardalsfjall now costs 200 DKK per person, which does not include a guide. The money can be placed in the mailbox by the gate leading to the trail. To go all the way to Enniberg, you must book a guide, which will increase the price significantly. Alternatively, you could go on an adventurous rib boat tour to see the cape from the ocean!
12 COMMENTS
Jesse Johnson
6 years agoHello and thanks for the info! Please be advised though, it is now 200dkk per person to hike to the cape or VILLINGADALSFJALL summit. Just like a lot of the hikes in the Faroes this one is now being charged for. I’d recommend including that in your write up so future hikers aren’t surprised! Cheers
Melissa Cherry
6 years agoHi Jesse, thank you very much for this information. I see that Visit Faroe Islands have now included this hike on their page on hiking restrictions, which they hadn’t when I wrote the post on the restricted hikes. I will update both posts accordingly! 🙂
Allison
6 years agoHi Melissa. Great story. Glad you made it back safely. Do you know of any guides that lead this hike? Thank you
Melissa Cherry
6 years agoHi Allison, thanks! Glad you enjoyed it 😀 You can organize a guided tour to Enniberg with Visit Norðoy, tlf. +298 456939 and mail: info@klaksvik.fo. Remember to specifiy, if you also want to climb Villingardalsfjall. Enjoy! 🙂
art-pen.ru
6 years agoWe discourage tourists from going on this hike without a guide, because it can be dangerous. The landscape is very steep, the path is difficult and the fog can appear very suddenly.
Melissa Cherry
6 years agoHi 🙂 I’m aware of the dangers as I’ve hiked in the Faroe Islands many times before, therefore I felt it was safe for us to go on our own. I would not go in bad weather though and always seek shelter during foggy weather.
John Little
7 years agoGlad I read this as I had a vague plan to visit Enniberg but hadn’t realised there were mauvais pas. Climbed a few of the easier Faroes hills on our honeymoon in 2006 and found it to be an incredibly dramatic place. Not quite as nimble these days but hopefully will return at least once more.
Melissa Cherry
7 years agoHi John! Sorry for the super late reply, I’ve been far too busy with exams! Enniberg is certainly a tough climb, but if you feel up for it, it’s definitely worth it for the dramatic views. Hope you get to return to the Faroes soon! 🙂
Jihyun Min
7 years agoHello,
Nice to meet you . I’m Jihyun Min in South Korea.
I’m ready to travel the Faroe -rent car tour.
I have been selecting the spot with my husband and daughter (11years olds) .
We can go around along full 5 days.(the seven-day six-night) .
I wonder from bottom to ENNIBERG , is is hard to climb and how long takes time
if we can go to right way ^^ ?
No south korean knows.
I leave now in Jeju island It also good place to travel ~
See you ~
Melissa Cherry
7 years agoHi Jihyun! What a great place you and your family has chosen to go to. I guess you already know how much I love the Faroe Islands! The hike up to Enniberg is tough and I don’t think it’s suitable for an 11-year-old, unless she has some hiking experience! It takes about 6-7 hours 🙂
I have actually been to Jeju back in 2016, and I loved it there! I hiked up Mt. Hallasan, which was an awesome experience 😀
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Ann
8 years agoYou are the most adventurous girl, Mel! I am glad you came back safe! Photos are so fantastic, I am lack of words!
Melissa Cherry
8 years agoThank you Ann! The photos don’t do the place justice, it was extraordinary ?